I'd originally planned to do First Pinnacle Rib (VDiff) and have a stab at the Yellow Slab (4b I think or maybe 4a) but it wasn't to be. We set off at 7am to get to Capel Curig by 9am to pick up a jacket I had reserved. The Arc Teryx Epsilion Hoody SV (which turned out to be awesome :)
This is part of my kit for the alps. I'll be sleeping in it with a Mammut Stratus Flash belay jacket over and maybe my hardshell too (although it will probably be sweaty!) and on the bottom half will be an AlpKit Pipedream 200 half sleeping bag. I hope I don't get too cold but should be ok :)
Anyway we didn't get to the foot of Tryfan until a bit later and then we got a bit lost and ended up arsing about climbing up sketchy chossy boulders to regain the path eventually (albeit a little hot and sweaty). We marched up passed Grooved Arete (HVD) and past the North Buttress but First Pinnacle Rib was busy so we quickly got back to Grooved Arete and geared up. I lead the first pitch which I though was a little tougher than I thought it would be. After I'd got up the groove I tried to step on a flake and go straight up which i thought was possible but I bottled out as I didn't fancy peeling off the hand jams. It certainly felt much harder than a HVD! I scooted up a bit more over fairly easy climbing and bought Chris up.
Chris seconding the first pitch of Grooved Arete (HVD)
Chris then went on to lead the second pitch continuing up the grooved arete. After this pitch I led the first which was pretty easy and led out to a walk over to beneath the grooved arete again (I think this was considered P4 but it was just a walk).
Chris leading pitch 2
Chris then started up the fifth pitch which was the most sustained climbing so far and got steeper as it went on, culminating in a final twitchy move pulling onto a kind of left bridging. This was pretty committing and I was glad to top out to the belay ledge referred to as the 'Haven' (not as much as I bet Chris was).
Me making arriving at the 'Haven'
After this pitch I made my way up the crack (protecting it quite a lot) before stepping out onto the infamous Knight's Slab. I worked my way up to the top wall of the slab and then worked across. It is a very exposed move onto a tiny very exposed ledge. I got three nuts in for a belay and was hanging off them bringing Chris up.
Chris on Knight's Move
Chris stepped over and continued up the next pitch, a corner crack onto a big ledge. This climbing was continued and the route was really gathering momentum at this point from the broken pitches at the bottom (P1, P2, P3 and the walk of P4).
Me hanging off the mega exposed belay after Knight's Move
Me topping out on pitch 7.
The guidebook (North Wales Ground Up) said something to the effect of royalty should continue up over steeper ground or you can walk off. I led this pitch and it started off slightly overhanging before moving around the corner and and climbing a slab with a crack. This felt quite bold. I then went on and tried to climb a chossy wall. I stuck a bit of gear in above me and then tried before backing off. I got back on and this time my hand slipped off all the crap and i fell onto the ledge below. Good fun but I decided to go around a bit further and it still worked out quite tough but not so chossy. I thought this pitch was perhaps a bit off piste and harder. Generally I think that the route was harder than a HVD, but it is a mountain route!
Chris topping out on the final pitch.
Finally... Tryfan from the car.
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