Bloody Roaches

I had half a day off work today for my first visit to Roaches for my first taste of Gritstone.  I got there about 4ish I think and found Daz, Allister and Emma on the route next to Valkyrie which looks even more impressive in reality than in any photos I've seen.

I after they finished I paired up with Daz and I led Yong (HVD 4a **) which felt ok for the grade once I was used to trusting the friction.  I took Daz's and Chris's cams up so and placed about 5 I think.

Not sure what the guy is on but Yong (HVD 4a **) runs up the twin cracks from the bottom left corner of the picture

After this Daz and Allister went over to climb on Hen Cloud and whilst there are a few routes there I want to try (namely The Arete) I thought I'd stay with Emma and try something a bit more taxing and see what all this Gritstone business is all about.  We headed over to do Ackit (HVS 5b **), struth what a route!  It's a layback crack that goes around a buldge and then another tough crack to layback and get over.  Emma got up to the bulge but didn't have enough smaller cams and after a few good goes and a fall she had enough.  We set up a top rope and I tried it.  I finished it but what an absolute strain, I didn't make it look elegant in the slightest but what a cracking route and a great introduction to Grit, drawing some blood!

Me belaying Emma just below the first crux on Ackit (HVS 5 **)

After this ordeal (haha) I was sweaty and out of breath, this is different climbing and I really like it.  I kept thinking about Dom Whillans photo on his DVD with his sunglasses, beanie and fag while I was doing it and imagining him saying man up lol!

Don Whillans!  Reputation for being a hard nut and famous for routes at Roaches

After we got off I wanted to lead something and suggested going to Hen Cloud but instead Emma suggested Sifta's Quid (HS 4b *).  I started off and thought the route was going to be easy!  I originally intended to climb inside the hole but couldn't quite get through with all my gear and helmet on!

Me disappearing into Sifta's Quid (HS 4b *)

I quickly decided that I would have to go over the top and which point I realised it wasn't going to be that easy!  I faff about stepping up and jamming and coming back down about 4 or 5 times before I got it right as I couldn't get friction for my slab on the outer wall whilst doing the crux.  The trick is to push down with your palm and sort of shimmy up it.  I ended up using the front of my left shoe too but as soon as you get your right foot up you're golden :)

Graham at the crux of Sifta's Quid

After this route I was feeling a bit beat up and knackered.  Emma suggested setting up a top rope on Chalkstorm (E4 5c **) and I thought I'd be able to do it on a slab as I've been feeling confident on them recently but I found even on a top rope with how knackered I was feeling a bit chicken so I came down. Emma then did it as did Graham.   All in all a cracking crag and I can't wait to get back to bash myself up some more!  Given I'd done the Welsh 3's on Sunday I was pleased to finish the harder routes, oh and I saw one of the lads we'd walked with on the last leg on my first route!  Small world eh?