Summer Programme

I'm a bit knackered - did 50 miles on the bike at the weekend along with a day of rallying and visiting family and I've just got back from my first session in the pool for my summer programme - in a nutshell this will be short!

Here is the ride from Sunday morning:


For some time now I've been training by swimming, running and cycling.  I was doing weights too at one point but I was struggling to feel like I was structuring my training and was feeling a bit lost.  Since I recently got a road bike, and indeed one of the influencing decisions to buy one was that I wanted to try a triathlon, particularly with open water swimming.  I've not decided on an event yet, or distance but I found a middle distance training plan on tri radar here the time rich plan looked a bit hardcore so I've opted for the time poor plan which is closer to what I am doing already.

I did a race pace crack at a local 2 mile Strava segment as a bit of a benchmark, I'm down to 8:35 min/miles on the golf course loop which is part of a 3.5 mile run from work:



It will be interesting to see how the training pans out.  I'm going to try and be disciplined so that I can make the most of the programme but with sportives and ldwa events tempting me plus some downhill riding I've got to try and keep focused as much as possible.

I had my first pool session tonight with drills.  I haven't done any since I was a kid.  I bought myself a float and pull buoy.  It's interesting putting it all together when you take an element out and focus on it and how much that improves you stroke, although I feel its more an issue of fitness and intensity rather than technique for the time being, I can happily bang out a couple of miles but my technique does slide.  One revelation was crawl with closed fists.  It's a lot to remember though!  Here's a post swim pick of my notes!

Fellsman 2013

Well, it's been some time since the Fellsman and although I mean to update this more often I've not got into the routine of it again just yet.  Thankfully I roped Jo into coming to Yorkshire with me.  I was worried about driving back and concerned that I might need someone to prop me up.

I think I'd built the event up in my own mind a lot.  I had plans to do the TMB and this was a qualification event that I wanted to get in my back pocket.  We stayed in a B&B the night before after arriving late, I slept ok but didn't eat that well the night before but started the day with a proper bowl of oats in the morning (not the normal instant microwave guff I eat at work).  I got stuck into the event and had a few ups and downs but nothing major.  During the night we crossed Fleet Moss en route to Cray.  I hadn't eaten for a while or taken any pain killers.  Part of the lack of eating was the fact I thought I only had 2 energy bars left - when I got home I had 4/5 - you don't check things properly when your tired!  The tendons in my right knee were sore and I'd gone over on my left ankle I think a few times so that was quite sore.  I was ok with all of that though.  As I came down off the hill I was looking forward to a closed tent to get warm - I'd started getting very cold.  Sadly the Cray checkpoint wasn't the best and the tent was wide open and I got colder and colder until I was shivering.  At that point the Doc checked me and suggest I quit as the next checkpoint was 6 hard miles.  I only had 1000ft and 15 miles left after climbing 10,000ft and travelling 45 miles.  I think it was 17hrs ish.  I warmed up soon enough when I got back.  I'm glad I dropped out as my right knee was quite creaky and my ankle was painful for a week after.  I think masking it with diclofenac wouldn't of made that any better!

After the first (biggest?) hill - Ingleborough

On the way up Whernside

I was ok after a cup of tea but felt cold for quite a while after.  There was no reception in the pub Jo was waiting at so she arrived around 6am, so I was looking forward to bed by that point!  I got back to the pub had a couple of hours sleep before the road in front of the pub was dug up!  Stihl saw and jack hammers!  I had scrambled egg and Jo drove us back.  My muscles felt ok Monday, I didn't ache too much.  Overall I was pleased with the performance - writing this retrospectively I've decided on a change of direction.

Looking forward to doing it again in 2014!

Physio, planning and perspective

Well I don't want to turn this into a training log so I won't rattle off a bunch of stuff I've been (not been) doing.  If I look at my training the volume is good but I wonder if I have making the most of my time.  Perhaps I'm just feeling sorry for myself because I had too much to drink over the weekend or maybe it has been the niggles I've been getting with my legs.

I went to the physio tonight who took a look at my stride.  I've been going to see him for a few sessions now and the original shin splints is better.  My right shin doesn't have pain now and the left is much better.  I have however been getting pain in my right achillies.  So much so it gets tight and I can't really carry on running.  I had though that this maybe down to shoes and that was my physios first guess, but we looked at my arches and I don't seem to have much control over them.  I'm sat trying to do some exercises for them now but it takes so much concentration.  He has also given me some exercises to strengthen and stretch my calves by lower them over a step.  I'm gonna have to cut this short because I can't bloody write whilst trying to do these arch exercises, especially on my weaker right side.

I've got the wolf run this week and its a shorter week with the bank holiday.  I want to try and get 3 runs in, 6km in pool and a couple of bike sessions but maybe optimistic!

Busy!

Well I've been busy sweating so not had time to write about any of it!

Highlights:

About a month ago went to Llandegla with the people from work - Nick fell in a massive puddle at the start of the first section after the slog up the hill.  Not just any puddle, it was Llyn Llandegla!  He was submerged so deep only his neck and head were out - there were huge chunks of ice so fair play to him for staying in such good cheer for the rest of the route!

Got a 910XT forerunner and retired the 305 to my dad.  Bit annoyed you need to do some working arounds with the TCX/GPX files on larger routes or the zoom plays up - apparently you need to select the normalize route option on http://www.gpsies.com if you convert, look in advanced options for the space evenly option.  If you don't do this the track disappears and it keeps redrawing which takes an age!  Also zoom at highest level didnt work - I'm yet to verify this!

Chiltern Kanter - First go at running an LDWA event.  Did the first 12/13 miles in 2.5hrs which was good - finished in 6:45hr overall.

Mud & Mayhem Duathlon (Thetford) - Planned a time of 2:30 from an educated guess - finished in 2:09 so pretty pleased.  Felt a bit off too - so definitely room for improvement.

Second Lap!

Strava - I've been blowing up trying to tempo run too fast but managed a PB the other day on a 5k route - about 25mins :)  Need to be careful that this doesn't dominate the schedule and I continue paying attention to my heart rate for cardio runs.

Today I bought a Ribble R872 - so hopefully the peddling should be stronger soon :)  Need to get the turbo from my dad!

I also managed a PB in the pool - averaging 1:50/100m over 400m - it's all going the right way!

Tomorrow I'm getting into work early - long run at lunch, somewhere between 7.5-8.5 miles :)

I've been doing weights - although haven't done any for a week or two since the Kanter - although I just did 30 push ups with some left in the tank.  I need to get back on this although I have the South Wales Three Peaks (17 miles platinum route) on Saturday which I'm walking with my dad, so I'll be back on weights next week - need to get squatting!

Bit of a sketchy post - really need to do this more regularly!

Oh one other thing - got my Fellsman entry! :S

Quick one...

Yesterday I swam somewhere between 2000-2500m in the local pool - took just under an hour-ish.  I hate counting laps and since I want to do longer events I've been thinking for sometime about retiring the Forerunner 305, my trusted steed.  This watch has been without doubt the best gadget I've owned.  I said before I'd do a review of it/how I use it (not to DC Rainmaker standards probably definitely).  It should be replaced tomorrow by a 910XT (perhaps a tri beckons, although this will mean buying a road bike - I've always wanted to do the Bala half ironman although it's probably a stretch for June/July).  I had a cheeky look at an open water swimming site at lunch, I really fancy it this year - perhaps if I'm good I can ask for a suit for my birthday.  Also dropped the Commencal at the bike shop to get the shifters upgraded from X7 to X0 ready for Llandegla on Saturday.

Tonight I decided to run down the to gym which is just under 5km away.  I did a bunch of chest stuff which I can't be bothered to describe but was pretty knackered after, then I ran home.  I've been suffering with shin splints so I jumped in a cold bath.  I'm gonna try and rub down my calves so hopefully that will straighten it out - it seems worse on tarmac than around the park.  All in all really got into trucking along when feeling tired (I was tired when I got in from work) - its what endurance is about - almost a hazy dream like experience - so relaxing when you get in the zone.

Monkey Trail

My first time on the Monkey Trail.  I've ridden Follow the Dog a few times.  Got their later than I'd planned so only had time for one lap so I went at it about as quickly as I could.  I took my Cube bike which is great for covering distance on but a bit sketchy on technical stuff some times (it's a hard tail).  I'll have to write a review of it some time.

I had to stop 3 times unnecessarily (twice for seat post adjustments and once for a rider asking if I'd seen someone.  Other than that it was balls to the wall and I did it in 1hr 55mins which I was quite pleased with.  Damn seat post slipping slightly mean eventually my back starts aching (which is the only clue it's slipped) and this is because of my hamstrings tightening up.  Overall a great ride and I look forward to doing it in the dry in under 1hr 45 mins.

Back to it!

Well it's been an eternity since I posted last.  Basically I got fatter, just over 17 stones to be precise.  I tried getting back into running and made some progress but it didn't last.  I was reluctant to post anything on here as it's a bit depressing if it all slides again!  Anyway I've been fairly consistently training since before Christmas (maybe November), I'm now about 15.5 stones.

I bought a bike and started riding to work and going out to trail centres with friends.  This resulted in me buying a bigger bike - a Commencal Meta SX.  I love riding it around Llandegla and I'm getting higher with the jumps every time :)

I've also got back into running and I'm down from over 10 minute miles to under 9 minute miles (I can squeeze out an 8 min/mile but not consistently yet!), I'm also cross training with mainly swimming but sometimes rowing or other stuff.  I miss the climbing, but for the time being I'm concentrating on other stuff, the biggest of which is the Ultra Tour du Mont Blanc in 2014.  I've entered a bunch of LDWA events and I'm hoping to get a place in the Fellsman which is a qualifying event for the UTMB.

I read an article in Outdoor Fitness in which a guy (whose name I can't recall) who won the 50s (I think) age group said that he wished he'd started resistance training a long time ago and that he could bench press 100kg.  With this chiming in my ears I've gotten back into weights too and I'm doing 3 sessions a week.

I say this every time I get into my fitness, but this time I hope it doesn't just last a year or two in the usual boom/bust cycle.  In the mean time I'll put it all on here again.....

Brecons with WMC

Jo and I headed down to meet the club at the Llangorse meet a couple of weekends ago with a bunch of beer and a bottle of wine ready for the obligatory drinking.  We didn't arrive until around 8pm ish and proceeded to crack open some ales.  I've not really played dominoes with the club but sat and had a few games and enjoyed it - despite not being able to hold my dommies like a "mon"!  Jo, Geordie and I stayed up drinking until about 1pm ish.  Nice prep for a day out on the hill!

We got up and out around 9am, feeling a bit rough but with a belly full of porridge for a day out on the hill.  We'd got a route planned which I'd made a GPX for.  We drove through Brecon and on for about 30 mins to Glyntawe and set out, it was a beautiful day.

After a short steep pull we were up to the ridge of Fan Hir, this was the majority of the height gain for the day and the views were cracking.

Me on the ridge to Fan Hir

We carried on along the ridge, enjoying the views.  With a small down and up we were on the summit of Fan Brycheiniog with a trig point (if memory serves me right).

Jo at the trig of Fan Brycheiniog

We stopped for a spot of lunch and then started up to the final summit of the ridge; Bannau Sir Gaer, for the most spectular view of the day above Llyn-y-Fan which has a bothy on its shore.

Jo above Llyn-y-fan

At this point we deviated from the beaten track to head for the final summit of the day; Garreg Las.  This is the great thing with bagging hills, it often takes you to places you wouldn't normally go.  The three hills we did previously would seem like an obvious route and Garreg Las is out of the way and over rougher ground with a poorly defined path.  We didn't really try and get onto the col between Garreg Las and Carreg yr Ogof, instead opting for a direct line to the stone shelters at the summit.

Jo and I in the shelter on the summit of Garreg Las

We dropped back down onto the col and then over Esgair Ddu and down the other side and crossed the stream, from here on there were loads of swallow holes and a pot hole - if it hadn't been getting late I would like to have looked for it.  After a short pull over the small hill of Banwen Gwyn we skirted around Disgwylfa to drop down to the Campsite and a short walk back car, we just got back as the light was fading.

I was pretty zonked after not having a full day in the hills for ages.  We walked down from the farm we were staying at to Llangorse for some grub, where Jason a new guy to the WMC was on a blind date - much to the mocking of some of the guys in the club.  He had a smile on his face so I guess it was going well....  We stayed for a quick drink and had a Pendryn before walking back.  We drank the rest of the booze and got some kip.

The next day we rolled out of bed at 9am and thought about going for a walk, or maybe climbing at the wall in the accommodation but apparently you needed to join and therefore it was quick steep in cost!  We had a look and it looked quite sweet.  We hatched a plan to head back via Church Stretton as I kept promising to show Jo the Shropshire Hills every time we were over.  We had a spot of food at the top of the burway as a nice way to end the weekend.

Since then I've been running more and climbing every tuesday.  I also went along to meet some of the guys at the bowline climbing club at their AGM.  I got a couple of numbers for some of the guys and hope to do some running and climbing with them this year now meeting the WMC guys is so difficult in the week.

WMC Scotland 2011

With crap (by which I mean no) preparation and a little trepidation I set off for the 2011 WMC Scotland meet.  The blog post is a little late as I've had a lot going on and no internet connection at home but I'm all up and running now so here is what I can recall!

Day 1 - Ring of Steall

I decided to go out on my todd for this one.  I hadn't been out for a while so I wanted to go at my own pace and over the past 6 months I've had a lot on so time on my own to relax seemed the order of the day.  I got up and drove down Glen Nevis and parked up.  After a short walk the beautiful Steall falls came into view.

Steall Falls

I had fun crossing the wire bridge and made my way past Steall falls and up the track before it dissapeared under snow and avalanche debris.  I found it tough going to be honest and as I got up to a gully I thought I'd climb up that.  A bit stupid really as a) the snow wasn't in good condition, b) I was on my own and c) the Ring of Steall is hard enough as it is without mucking around.  All that said I was there for the snow and it was good fun, even if a little sketchy at points because it got quite steep on powdery snow :S

Wire Bridge

View up to An Gearanach

I slowed down after getting up and finally plodded up to the top of An Gearanach, by this point it got bloody cold and windy.  I really started buzzing as I got out on the ridge, it was real Scottish weather.  It is what I love about mountaineering and being alone really added to it.  Rather stupidly I'd got my phone in my map case which was around my neck and under my arm, because of the strong winds it kept smacking me in the face so I decided to stop and take it off.  I think by this point I'd made it An Garbhanach.  As I took the map case off the wind whipped my case off and over the edge of the ridge.  I looked over the edge and could see it perched on the edge of a steep drop.  

Me on the ridge

I was really annoyed but I'd only just paid £150 excess for a lost phone and I didn't want to lose it and decided if I took my time I'd be ok.  I climbed down making sure everything was bomber planted and then scampered back up to get my pole.  I fully extended it and climbed back down.  It wouldn't reach and I tried to get lower but my cramps where on a rocky slab and I was really worried.  I planted my axe really good and got my feet as good as I could and leaned down.  Fully stretched I managed to get the the map case strap around the pole and scampered back up.  I was pretty sketched out after that and running late with visibility of just a few feet I decided to turn back.  All in all a good first day though.

View on the way back down

Day 2 - Anonach Mor

After chatting with a few guys in the Chalet I agreed to try Right Twin with two guys from the club.  We got the ski lift up and then started walking around the Aonach an Nid.  It was snowing and we were breaking trail (at least the other Dan was).  I found it really hard going, it didn't help that I managed to fall into a rabbit hole and twist my knee although this didn't become noticeable until coming down.  As we got near the first chairlift we stopped to put our crampons on.

Me getting geared up

We carried on the next cable car and a combination of the snow conditions, my fitness and the other guys lack of experience was playing on my mind.  As we got up a guide was doing skills with a couple of ladies and stated he thought there was a good chance of avalanche.  We ate some food and chatted before climbing up onto the ridge overlooking the crag where Right Twin (II) is.  It was a complete white out but the cloud broke slightly for a few seconds while I had the camera in my hands.

East face of Aonach Mor

The top of the col was quite corniced but I could see a gap and decided that we'd try and get through that and on to the summit.  I decided to put my googles on which was a good idea.  We decided to eat a little food before setting off.

Me on the ridge

We walked up and it slowly steepened until we were using one axe daggering and using our hand for support.  I was having a job kicking steps because the snow was soft and as we went into the most recessed part the spindrift had gathered which made it difficult to get purchase.

Dan Box topping out

Me on the summit of Aonach Mor with Carn Mor Dearg in the distance

We walked back down following the ski routes.  By this point my knee was pretty sore from the rabbit hole earlier and I was feeling the strain of two days in the hills.  I was glad to get back to the ski centre and get down.  A nice day out though, even without the route.  Apparently the place to be was the west face, but still a good day out!

Day 3 to 5 - Tatting around

The next day I was pretty achey and decided to head to Fort William to the leisure club for a soak and relax.  It was my turn to cook so I did venison in red wine with a gorgonzola scone and roast spuds which worked out well!  

The next day the weather was aweful so I headed to the Ice Factor.  Nobody was up for climbing on the indoor ice so I did some bouldering.  I don't know why, maybe confidence but I didn't fancy doing the routes.  After a couple of hours I was pumped!

The day after I stayed in and feeling crappy from lack of fitness decided to go for a run behind the chalets.  I did 5 miles with just under 1100ft of ascent.  Not too bad!

Day 6 - Stob Coire Raineach (Buachaille Etive Beag)

On the final day I wanted to bag another Munro and decided to get an easy one under my belt.  Although I had the option to do Stob Dubh too if I felt like it.  Me and Dan Box set off and again my legs felt like lead, even though I had a tiny sack on (with no crampons in it).   As we made it up the weather turned grim and we got blasted with hailstones.  I was wishing I'd made some room for them in my sack!  By the time we got back to the col between Raineach and Stob Dubh I was soaked and cold and given the strength of the wind wussed out going over the ridge to Stob Dubh.  

Me on the summit of Stob Coire Raineach getting blasted by hailstones

We ended up back at Ice Factor for a coffee before going home to get changed.  I've left out most of the social stuff and there was plenty all week but we ended up in the Clachaig Inn for tea.  I had a venison burger and loads of beer which was then swilled down with Whisky at the pub near the chalets.  I didn't get to bed until at least 2:30am and I was pretty rough for the drive home!

All in all a good week but more for relaxing and refocusing as I was dissapointed with my fitness.  I really need to get on this!

Rick The Hitman "Fatton"

I won't make this a long one, but since the alps I've gotten fat.  Why?  A couple of reasons but the main one being work.  I'm addressing this now and I'm thirsty for getting back to good nick.  The last "bout" of training saw me pushing my speed and thus my confidence in my ability to run 7-7:30 minute miles is there.  It's just a case of grinding through it.

I tinkered with a few runs over the past few weeks but I think I'm getting back into a habit which is good.  Sadly I've not been able to get back into the climbing yet, I've been once since the alps and my weight and decreased grip were depressing.  I've moved home so I need to suss out the new wall.  I also need to get some routes sorted around where I live.

I'm off to do an LDWA event on the weekend, I know its Christmas and a bad time to start, but the truth is there is no bad time :)

I'll do a post next week with info on how the LDWA event goes, I'll only be walking this time but I'll be back to running them soon.

Hopefully I will be in good nick before the next bout of Winter comes and/or for February when I'm off to Scotland with the WMC.  Speaking of which I'm thinking about joining another club local to my new place so I can get some climbing partners.  Maybe a bit of running and bouldering first so I don't embarrass myself :s

Alps 2010 - Best of the Rest

I didn't manage to get up to the Col du Midi the following day as the weather came in. I was pretty concerned with the amount of precipitation that I wouldn't be able to find the gear.  I went up alone and the ridge had some powder on it which made it easier for me (I also used one of my poles which helped too).  As a result of the new snow the crevasses had been covered on the bank down to the col.  I refused the offer of roping up with two lads also on a retrieval mission and steamed down in the style you run down scree.  I stopped a couple of feet short of a covered crevasse, that would of made me look like a bit of a plonker after refusing the offer to tie in!  All the tents under the Cosmiques Hut were gone and I was worried I'd never find the gear.  The deep holes were just a couple of inches raised lump!  I started digging in one site but gave up and moved to another.  After digging down a couple of feet I found Chris's bag and proceeded to dig until I had all the gear.  Going back up the ridge was more unnerving in contemplation that actually doing it.  I had to step across to let 2 teams of 3 roped up people passed.  It's always nicer going up!  I got down and Chris had the gear packed up so I booked the ferry and we got on our way.  After dropping Chris off at St Albans I drove back to Telford and made it back just after 4am!

I've been very busy at work this week so I've not gotten around to putting up the best of the photos from my compact camera (I forgot to take the cable to Chamonix and couldn't get hold of one there).  Without further ado....

Cosmiques Arete

View from the ice cave exit to the Vallee Blanche

Wider initial part of the ridge to the Vallee Blanche

Steeper, narrower corner on the ridge - gives a good sense for the exposure!

Me posing on Cosmiques Arete

The largest of the Gendarmes

Chris and I under the crux

Me waiting to bring up Chris on the short crux pitch

The narrow section after the crux (I squeezed down it!)

Chris on the steeper chimney final section

Albert Premier Hut

Chris freezing on the chairlift, looks like Wales!

Me in a crevasse :)

Looking down the crevasse

Video of me in the crevasse on the Glacier du Tour

Chris starting out on the Glacier du Tour for Tete Blanche (~5am)

Chris seconding the Col du Tour

Chris in the Col du Tour

Since I've been back I've been busy with work and I've made a conscious decision to have a week off an physical activities as I've been at it hard for around 9 months!  This week I've been over indulging in food quantity and quality as well as alcohol.  I've been itching to get back into it but resisted as I think a break is a good thing.  I've got some more big goals in my mind and I'll put these up and my training ideas for the foreseeable future soon.

Alps 2010 - Mont Blanc (Day 12 & 13)

We had kind of settled on doing the Three Monts route to the summit of Mont Blanc.  This involves climbing to the shoulder (a few metres short of the summit around 4100m) of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) before dropping into the Col Maudit (4035m) and then climbing the north face of Mont Maudit (4465m) to the Col du Mont Maudit (4345m), on the other side of this is the Col de Brenva (4303m) which then leads via the Mer de la Cote and Plateau du Petits Rochers Rouge (around 4550m) to the summit of Mont Blanc (4808m).  We had decided this on the basis that the Grand Colouir on the Aiguille du Gouter (normal/ordinary route) was suffering from bad rock fall, although we had left it in mind that we could descend this way depending on how things panned out.  We had originally decided that we would get up at  5am and get the first cable car to the Aiguille du Midi and start the route in the morning, which apparently is a valid option although upon hearing that the weather wouldn't be good in the afternoon we decided to make a last minute dash and bivi on the Vallee Blanche.  We only just made it!

You can just make out the Aiguille du Midi hiding in the clouds, from the Plan de Aiguille Station (half way)

We reached the Midi station just before closing and went in the cafe for some last minute grub.  While I ran to get the tickets for the cable car Chris had got some bread and ham to take onto the Vallee Blanche for breakfast/tea.  We left it a little while and I became a bit overwhelmed with nerves as the route is quite grand, most of it above 4000m and I was still worried about the acclimbatisation issue of my last trip.  We headed down from the Midi station down the dreaded snow slope, I really hate this slope, one false move and your a goner!  When I get my photos off the other camera you'll see what I mean!  We headed to the Cosmiques Hut as it has a reputation for being one of the nicest in the Mont Blanc Massif, but after enquiring they were full so we headed down with all the other dossers on the Vallee Blanche and got digging a snow pit with a wall around it to keep the wind at bay.  

Bivouac on the Vallee Blanche

We settled into the bivi gear and got the bread and ham on the go.  After a bit of music to calm my nerves I got my head down for the sum total of 2 hours!  I woke up and couldn't get to sleep, my chest felt strange and I kept wanting to sit up.  I think paranoia!  I looked behind me and there was already a party nearing the summit of the Tacul so I asked Chris if he was asleep and suggested we cracked on.

Head torches stream out of the Cosmiques Hut under the Milky Way

4 parties (head torches) visible on the North Face of the Tacul

So we got too it.  Whilst I took along the camera there wasn't a lot of opportunity to stop and get it out as we were more concerned with cracking on and getting the route done.  The reason I was worried the previous day is I'd noticed a number of large crevasses on the face and thought (and had read) that the Col du Mont Maudit was steep and possibly ice.  I would normally jump at this but at nearly 4500m, not a place for things to go wrong!  I have an immense amount of respect for this mountain range.  We trundled across the Col du Midi to the foot of the Tacul and started up it.  We seemed to be making good progress, we got overtook by a couple of groups but were generally holding our own for pace.  As the slope started to level out I knew the massive crevasse I'd spied would be looming.  And how to cross this  2-3m beast?  With an aluminum ladder that had frozen in place of course!  I cracked on and got over it ok and Chris followed.  We were roped up and had a very minimal rack (ice screw, prussiks, belay plate and a medium sling) and were short roped.  Nothing went wrong and we proceeded to another crevasse higher up which involved bringing your boot up to hip height, swinging your axe and getting up it!  There were a couple of smaller crevasses on the face but we just stepped over or around these.  The snow was quite powdery and with the small army moving up was getting mushed up.  I was pleased when we reached Col Maudit and we stopped to take on a little food.

Climbers preparing under Maudit, you can see the head torches on the North Face, the highest are at the Col du Mont Maudit

We got stuck into Maudit which felt a bit steeper but passed well enough until we hit the bottleneck of the Col du Mont Maudit.  I was quite surprised by this because although the 3 Monts Traverse is harder than the Gouter Route its still done by Joe Public after a mountain experience.  I wasn't expecting 30m of ice at 50 degrees!  There were fixed ropes from about 5-10m but the stream of people dinner plating ice meant I was hit on the helmet by about 3 lumps of ice the size of a big fist!  Not what you want when your climbing with no protection other than crampons, one axe and another hand clinging to a rope!  I'd started the climb with just my thinish Marmot gloves and as I neared the Col I was frozen to the bone!  I was also greeted by a man frantically trying to reattach a crampon to the foot of a woman who was looking very nervous at the top of the ice pitch!  I wasn't in a good position and spied some ice and rock to the right of her and decided to rock up this.  A bit silly perhaps in retrospect with no protection but great fun, just make sure you axe and feet are placed well!  I bought up a nervous looking Chris on a spike belay to see the Mer de la Cote.  At this point I was so cold it was untrue, the wind picked up and I was colder than I've ever been!  I got the Dachsteins out and put those over my Marmot gloves.  We walked over dithering and I could see the summit of Mont Blanc briefly and knew we still had a way to go.  We started up the final face of Mont Blanc and made it to the Plateau Petits Rochers Rouge after what seemed like an eternity!  There was still more to go, it never seemed to end and breathing is hard at nearly 5000m no matter how well acclimbatised you are!  Incidently my plan this time worked a treat and I didn't feel ill in the slightest :)  After some more slogging, and some more freezing all the way (and I mean freezing, it was a white out with winds strong enough to blow you over and my eyelashes had big lumps of ice on them) we finally made it.  It was really mentally draining, I just wanted to get in a sauna!  We stayed for a while on the summit under the face to shelter us from the wind but it was still soooooo cold!

Chris and I on the summit of Mont Blanc

Me at the summit of Mont Blanc (I think this pic gives a better feeling for what it was like - you can see some climbers coming on to the summit ridge)

Well as you can see it was cold, and the view wasn't up to much and after climbing ladders over crevasses and 50 degree ice with no protection we didn't fancy reversing the route and since we knew the Gouter route we thought we'd chance the stone fall!  We headed back over Bosses Ridge which was less fierce than I thought it might be, although you still wouldn't want to fall off it!  This lead us to the Vallot hut which whilst still in white out conditions was out of the wind.  Chris took a photo of my verglassed face!

Me cold and icy!

After this we followed tracks down to find the Dome du Gouter and back to familar territory and visibility!  It's funny how weather in the mountains works, and how the forecasts often don't!  We stopped off at the Gouter hut which is still a dump but it appears they have started building the new one which will be interesting, although I'm not sure what routes I'd want to do that end up there?  Bionassay Ridge maybe?  We stayed and Chris ate an omelet and I wolfed down some cake bar things I'd took along.  We got on the Aiguille du Gouter which is a horrible route full of loose stone.  4 people died last week in a single incident I believe.  The problem is as the snow melts it defrosts the rocks and they come flying down something called the Grand Colouir.  I saw a load at the start and had to wait for 10 minutes before making a frentic dash!  Chris was waiting for me at the bottom as I bumped into a brit guide I'd met earlier in the week and got chatting.  As we prepared to move off we heard a load of frentic shouting in Spanish, as we looked up there was a boulder the size of a breeze block hurtling down.  I went to leg it and nearly ran in front of it!  As if the climbing weren't frantic enough!  We made it down to the Nig d'Aigle and got suckered into a train trip, cable car and bus journey that seemed to last for ever when all you want to do is put down your sack, take off your boots and rest your achy bones!  The bivi gear is still in the snow ditch, the weather crap now so I'll be heading up tomorrow to collect!

Alps 2010 - North Face of Tete Blanche (Day 9)

After quite a comfortable nights sleep I was raring to go at 4am.  We had been told by everyone (the mountain office, guides and hut) that Tete Blanche (3429m) north face was not in condition because of the massive bergshrund and thin conditions.  I wanted to see for myself!  Dan and Tariq were up in the hut too, they were making an early start for the Aiguille du Tour, although I'm not sure which summit.

Pre dawn start, overlooking the hut and Tour Glacier

We dropped from the hut straight onto the glacier and roped up although we should of carried on along the ridge to gain the glacier so as to not have to regain the height.  The walk wasn't too bad we drudged up one hill to the Signal Reily and turned back towards the Aiguille du Tour.  A bit more walking saw us at the foot of the Col Superior du Tour.

Foot of Col Superior du Tour

We carried on as if to follow the ordinary route up Tete Blanche but then peeled off up the glacier to hit the Col du Tour.  Because of the weather it was a little mixed route which was good fun.  We moved together on it mostly although about half way up I put a sling on a spike to secure Chris.

Col du Tour just left of centre, see people on top right for perspective!

As we gained the top of the col we were greeted with the amazing view of the Plateau du Trient and Switzerland.  To the right we could see the bad conditions on the Tete Blanche North Face.

Chris in front of the North Face of Tete Blanche, overlooking the Plateau du Trient

We dropped down onto the Plateau du Trient which is roughly level with the Col du Tour and walked along towards the north face.  If you look carefully at the photo above you can see a colouir on the right hand side of the face.  We moved along to this and I decided we should give it a go to gain the west ridge.  At first the snow was quite good neve but this meant moving around in the colouir a little to find the best snow/ice.

Chris in the colouir to the right of the north face of Tete Blanche

At the top of the colouir I could of continued up, over rock but given we had no gear and the snow was dodgy I didn't fancy it, or traverse right over a boulder with soft snow which I didn't fancy either!  I tried to climb the rock but because of the heat it was all soft and scree was coming away in my hand.  I decided to hook my axes on the rock and move quickly over the soft snow.  I was glad to reach the shoulder where I bought up Chris.  At this point I saw some climbers crossing the bergshrund and thought I would join the North Face.  Chris wasn't so keen on the idea so we untied from the rope and Chris took it up the ridge to the summit and I soloed the face.  For the most part it was fairly good condition but there was a couple of occasions when I was scratching around in powder and just had to kick my feet hard and hope!  As I got further to the top the snow turned to ice and the axe placements became more solid but the angle became more vertical, I'm guessing 60 degrees!  Again it was slightly sketchy because the top was loose scree and boulders.  I used my hands at the top, placing my axes behind a rock first and then moving.  I was pretty chuffed to make the summit.

Looking down the North Face of Tete Blanche from the summit.  You can see the other party, the bergshrund below them and my tracks heading out from the shoulder

There were a few more rocks to scramble over to get to the summit where I met Chris and we spent a long time relaxing on the summit in the sun.  After about an hour we decided that we couldn't be bothered with the plod up Petite Fourche which was just over the ridge, over the Col du Blanc.

Chris on the summit of Tete Blanche

After relaxing on the summit we decided to head across the Col du Blanc which can be used to abseil down in to the Swiss side and took some photos, it really is a massive wall of ice - not something you'd want to fall down but just a 30m abseil then you can descend safely with crampons.  

Me above the Col du Blanc with Petite Fourche behind

We followed the normal route of Tete Blanche back and got back in plenty of time.  We had some food and went for a snooze before being woken up for the main meal.  Fish soup! Not just any fish either!  Tinned fish!  Blimey I don't know how I managed a bowlful!  It was duck and beans for the main course though so not all bad.  We were all tucked up in bed ready for kip by 8pm.