Alps 2010 - Cosmiques Arete (Day 5)

We woke up at 5am ready to jump in the car and get to the Aiguille du Midi cable car station, we ate breakfast and jumped in the car but it wouldn't start.  This was worrying for a couple of big reasons, firstly because we would miss the first cable car to the Aiguille du Midi and secondly and more importantly for getting home!  Chris was sure it was because his keyfob had ran out of battery it was the immobiliser so we headed off on foot for the 20 mins or so walk to the station.  We got on the lift at about 7am, an hour later than we had planned but still in good time.  The cable car is a funny ride, it kind of judders as it reaches the supports and then swings back and forth and it passes although it all feels really smooth.  I took a load of photos with mainly my compact camera but also had my DSLR although I forgot the cable for my compact so I can only put up photos from the big camera at the moment.

The steep snow slope as seen when exiting the cable car

The view from the bridge across to the main section of the station is amazing and the drops are sheer!  You follow the signs down to the exit to the Vallee Blanche which leads you into an ice tunnel where you put your crampons on and prepare for the mega exposed descent down onto the Vallee Blanche.  You can see in the photo above some climbers descending.  The snow was well trod but even at about 8am it was still a bit slushy on top, I guess from the traffic, it made for a nervous descent.  I'm heading into Chamonix tomorrow so I'll try and get a cable and upload some more pics showing the ice tunnel and taken from the steep slope.

Me with the steep, exposed snow slope and Midi station behind

Chris looking onto the Valle Blanche

We traversed slowly under the face of the Aiguille du Midi to the Abri Simmond Hut with the Cosmiques hut a little further away.  We took off our crampons as the route looked quite dry.  Here we met a trainee doctor (Dan) and an emergency doctor who had a special interest in high altitude medicine (Tariq) from the UK, nice company in the circumstance!  We chatted a while at the bottom of the route while we geared up.

Me with the start of the route behind

The first section was about Diff level climbing and fairly easy.  We moved together hooking the rope around spikes where possible.  It wasn't long before we had to go under a the Gerdarme on the right and head slightly up for the first abseil.  By this point we had to queue and opted to abseil off a rock spike rather than the anchor point.  In fairness you could probably down climb the this bit if you were careful.

Chris on the first abseil

After this abseil we had to queue for quite a while to get onto the next abseil which was much longer and definitely couldn't be down climbed.  There are two double bolted anchors which you need to work your way along to and then you drop into free space.  By the time you reached good solid ground you were nearly at the end of our rope so 30m in total.   I had a nervous moment as I swang out into space to realise I hadn't unclipped my sling which I had for security whilst getting on the abseil!  I had to pull up a couple times and get some rope through my belay plate for the guy above to unclip!  I think I'd of been sweating a bit and reaching for my other prussik if there hadn't been someone behind!

  

The queue for the second abseil

After this we worked up a bit more and around another big column and down to where we saw the crux, a 4b slab.  I'm not sure if the 4b takes into account the fact it looks as though someone has chipped away some space for your feet.  There is a bolt about half way up the crack which I clipped.  As I pulled up and got my feet sorted I put in a cam before moving my boot into the crack and placing a cam above.  It was still fairly interesting in big boots!  I think I'll practice this kind of stuff more in wales before next time!  I bought up Chris and then moved down a thin crack before wedging up and out, this seemed like the right thing at the time but Chris jumped straight onto it which might of been better but less protected for me leading.  We then ended up on a ledge where Chris lowered me down and then down climbed.  We moved over too far to the left and I did an exposed bridge over the sheer drop of the face!  I was feeling good by this point and moving well but as I bought Chris up I decided to then traverse up and backwards through a gap.  As I got in the gap the flake I was standing/pulling on started rocking back and forth which made for a nervous moment!  I ended up doing another move clipping and in-situ cam before bringing Chris up and finding the normally gully.  After this I stepped out to see the terrace and some people applauding which was great.  I climbed across and ended up doing an exposed bridge and swing across the face again to end up at the foot of the ladder which the spectators seemed to appreciate! I bought Chris over and started up the ladder.  It looked pretty rickerty so I used two slings with wiregates just in case.  

Chris and I on the terrace

As we jumped onto the platform for a heroes welcome we saw Dan and Tariq coming over, I took some photos of them and we waited for them to make the terrace.  After shaking hands we went to the cafe which was rammed and hot!  I had a butty and crepe and a bottle of coke and we exchanged email addresses before leaving for the cable car.  On the staircase I saw Edward from Alien rock (a friend of Grahams) who had just done the Three Monts Traverse for Mont Blanc.  He looked knackered, like we will next week!

Dan belaying Tariq over the last part of the ridge to the ladder, I went further right around the flake.

If I can get a lead tomorrow for my compact camera I'll get some of the 'action' shots out where I couldn't pull out the DSLR for time/space/balance reasons :)

Alps 2010 - Envers Hut Crag (Day 4)

After a relatively long lie in of 7:30am we got up for breakfast, we had granola and nutty bread with jam swilled down with some tea and orange juice.  We sat around outside for a while before going down to the rocks at the front of the crag.  We went onto the second tier and I spied a line of bolts, I couldn't make out the name of the routes from the topo in the book.  It looked fairly good, not too easy or hard so I geared up and got started.  The easiest line in the book was 4b on this tier and this felt much easier but a different style of climbing on slabs with delicate finger work and some big step ups where leg flags helped.  I made short work of the first pitch.

Me leading the first pitch

I bought up Chris in the middle of the rope and we tied the big boots and sack onto the end of each of the ropes.  Chris came up to the bottom of the first tier and I hauled the boots and sack up.  I got ready to get on the second pitch which had a tricky undercutting start but then got much easier, I'd say about the standard of a Diff.  I got up it pretty quite and clipped the bolt by the hut and bought up Chris.

Me bringing up Chris on the second pitch

Me at the second belay

After this we climbed the short ladder back onto the terrace of the hut and chilled out and drank some more water.  One thing I've not mentioned already is that at this altitude and in this heat its easy to get dehydrated.  I sweat a lot so its really important for me to drink plenty and I use Nuun tablets to replace lost salts.  I ate the cake I'd save from breakfast and we slowly packed up to descend back to the campsite.

Chris on the path to the ladders to rejoin the Mer de Glace, Aiguille Rouge in the distance

Me at the start of the steeper ladders to regain the Mer de Glace

After getting down the steeper lower 100m or so of ladders down to the Mer de Glace we roped up again, this time with Chris on the sharp end of the rope.  We headed back over the crevasses, this time more to the left than on the way up.  

Chris in between crevasses on the Mer de Glace

The drudge up the ladders was hard work and I was blowing heavy.  I think again it might of been because of dehydration as my bladder pack ran out some time earlier.  We were rushing up them though, it was nice to get to the top and finally see the station.  The queue was massive but we were soon(ish) on the train and back to Chamonix.  I bought a melon to eat in the train station while waiting to go back to Les Praz where the campsite is situated.  It was nice to get some proper fruit and its so much tastier than back home.  I messed around on my laptop until about 10pm trying to get some stuff on the blog but the wifi kept cutting out but eventually gave up and got my sack ready for an early start (5am) on Cosmiques Arete.  I'll post that up soon :)

Alps 2010 - Aiguille du Roc (Day 3)

I awoke around 7am and got some rice down my neck.  We had been looking in the Envers de Aiguille guide book for an easy route and had planned to do the Grepon Mer de Glace (D) but at 850m it was a long route and given our lack of acclimatisation and the difficult of route finding and committing nature of the route we decided to rethink our plans and headed out of the hut to the left down a steep snow slope and up towards the lower half of the Aiguille du Roc to do the easiest route in the book - Sonam (D Fr 5b).  We walked up the steep snow slope pictured below, although you can't see the route we did (it's slightly more to the left) you can see two climbers in the top left which give a good sense of scale.

Snow slope leading to the foot of the Aiguille du Roc (top left)

After stepping over a couple of crevasses on the soft snow we got to the foot of the climb which required a step over a bergshrund of about 2ft wide to get onto the route.  The bergshrung seemed bottomless.  I think we were both worried that the route seemed a lot harder than a 4b but I psyched myself up and told Chris to stop worrying (or at least keep it to himself) and I got my rock boots on.  Rock boots aren't the best thing to be walking around in on ice and snow and I took my axe and tentatively walked up the snow slope leading to the bergshrund and planted my axe.  I hopped over and started the route.  I was desperate to try and get as much gear in as possible as decking into a crevasse wouldn't be fun.  Climbing up something of this scale is simply immense.  The route Sonam is 6 pitches long, the first I'd say was about 30-35m.  I made fairly good progress up the side and into a crack placing a few nuts and finding one in-situ nut.  I then had to traverse out past a piton about half way up into the central crack.  At this point it all got a lot more difficult.  There was very little for your hands and feet!  I managed to get up a little higher before placing a cam and laying back (and pulling a little on it) to place another one.   This was so much harder than a 4c, and the book said there was no need for gear as it was fully bolted, another sign we were off route.  I put in another cam and pulled a bit because there was very little for feet and the layback crack started to bulge.  I got a couple of nuts in to protect my precarious stance and 'manned up' before pulling over the bulge and scrabbled up to the belay bolt.  I was pretty relieved!

Me leading the first pitch of what we thought was Sonam

I bought up Chris wedged in a small cave, it was nice to be out of the sun but a pretty uncomfortable hanging belay.  I do enjoy belaying on multipitch routes as you can turn out away from the face and enjoy the view, and what a view!  It's probably one of the things I enjoy about climbing the most.  Chris came up and met me and then lead the next pitch which was easier technically but still reachy and with some committing step ups.  There were alot more bolts on this pitch, perhaps the glacier had retreated leaving an extra pitch at the bottom?  Chris made good progress but as I belayed him I noticed that my axe at the bottom had started to lean in towards the bergshrund as the heat of the midday sun melted the snow, I wasn't happy about having to travel the snow slope and crevasses on the way back without an axe and this put me on edge somewhat.  Chris bought me up and we decided that with my axe where it was and the difficulty of the route we should abseil down.  The next pitch looked fairly easy (VDiff/Severe) but we geared up and lowered off in one abseil.  I was a bit nervous about this but Chris got down and I followed.  

Me abseiling down the first pitch

We had a bit of a nervous moment as the rope snagged but we got it back and descended to the hut.  We hung around outside absorbing the view until tea time, we ate at the hut this time.  They serve good simple food which really fills the hole.  For an extra 11 euros we had the option to sleep in the hut so we did.  I think I slept better but earplugs are always a must!

The last of the light from the hut

I tried to stay up to wait for the stars to come out as I was keen to get a long exposure shot but I was too tried.  I thought I might get some in the night if I needed the loo but I didn't really wake up properly and was in the middle top bunk so it wasn't so easy!  I'll try and take one at altitude before I leave though!  We planned to do some cragging on the rocks in front of the hut in the morning before descending down to Chamonix at around lunch time.  This would help firm up our ideas about the grading!

Alps 2010 - Up to the Envers Hut (Day 1-2)

I've just got back from a couple of nights in the mountains for a rest day so here is a catch up so far.  Chris and I set off from Telford straight after work, heading to his aunty and uncle's house near St Albans.  First thing Saturday morning we were up and heading towards Dover.  The trip was ok, I think we arrived at Chamonix about 7:30pm having left at 5am.  The drive is a long one with not much to do but read and play with the camera, a 10-20mm lens I hired especially for the trip.  Its taken some awesome photos so far, despite being a pain to lug about and get out to take photos with.

Too much time in the car!

When we arrived at Chamonix we were ready to get the tent up and hit the hay so we could get out the next morning but as we arrived the campsite was fully booked.  The Mer de Glace campsite is probably the best in Chamonix with easy access everywhere (you get a free rail ticket), good free showers, laundry facilities and free wi-fi :)  After talking to the owners they told us to come back early the next day, so we scouted around looking for somewhere to doss.  Chris found a chalet that was still being built but nearing the end of construction so we go the sleeping gear out and spent the night under the verandah.  We were up early the next morning to try and get a space and found a the Dru peering at us through the clouds.

Le Dru through the clouds at 6am

I had to wait in a queue at the office until they opened at 7:30am, the lady at the campsite sorted us out with a pitch and we got the tent up sharpish.  As soon as we had it up we packed our bags and headed back to Chamonix station to catch the Montenvers station up to the Montenvers Hotel at on the side of the Mer de Glace glacier.  We met a Scottish lad called Graham who we got chatting to, he asked if he could rope up with us across the glacier.

Montenvers Train Station

This drops you off at around 1900m (around 900m gain from the town of Chamonix).  We then headed down the via ferrata style ladders around 100m down on to the glacier.  If your not good with heights, you wouldn't like this!  There were also some ropes to descend hand over hand if you preferred.  We took the 3 sections of rope at the bottom in preference to the ladders.

Chris on the via ferrata ladders from the Mer de Glace

As we got to the glacier we saw a marmot which was so tame you could of stroked it!  Chris got up a personal with the little fellow :)  Once on the glacier we walked for a little while before deciding to rope up.  We didn't bother with crampons as the surface was quite soft because of the baking sun.  I led across with Chris in the middle and Graham at the back.  We marched across the glacier, jumping some crevasses and walking across a narrowish ice bridge (about 2ft).  It was pretty good fun walking into the mountains along the glacier, and the fact that it was dry (no snow) meant it was fairly safe going.

Chris and Graham getting ready to rope up on the Mer de Glace

After following the glacier around a bend the crevasses worsened before it straighten out and the glacier got steeper.  There is a large red arrow on the cliff face to the left hand side which marks the ladders, similar to those from the Montenvers.  There is lots of loss boulders, scree and sand on the edge of the glacier which require good balance before getting to the foot of the ladders.  Graham had a bit of a stumble which knocked down a lot of rubble, missing Chris lower down.  There was then a very short slightly overhanging section of ladder.  

Chris above the Mer de Glace on more via ferrata

After following the ladder to the top there was a winding path which we followed before another few shorter sections of iron steps and handles before finding the path again.  By this point I'm not sure if it was altitude or heat or what but I was blowing a bit and the last winding section up to the hut was tough!   There were plenty of marmots to keep me amused while taking a breather.  My fitness hasn't counted for much and lugging up a heavy sack full of metal climbing, sleeping and cooking gear as well as food didn't make it any easier.  The Envers hut at 2523m is worth it though, nice and clean with proper working toilets and some of the best food in the Alps I've had :)  Talk about a room with a view....

Envers Hut (2523m) perched above the Mer de Glace

Chris on the terrace of the Envers Hut

We set up our bivi gear outside the hut against the stone wall, I was shattered and got off to sleep around 9pm I think.  I only woke at about 2am to see some climbers leaving, one of which is in a Petzl Scottish winter climbing video (the one called Marshal?) see below.  

The stars are so vivid at this height with no light pollution.  I was too tired to take any pictures and went back to sleep.  The half sleeping bag and belay jacket worked really well, so I was pleased with that.

ISCF Bouldering World Cup @ Sheffield

Waiting for a build....

I'm conscious of the fact I haven't blogged for what seems a while, I'm at work waiting for my software to compile so I've got chance to put a few thoughts down.  I've been feeling like my running has been lacking a little recently and I've been doing trad climbing more and hence not pushing myself as physically hard, this coupled with the fact that I feel like I've been eating too much (portions and red meat in BBQ's) and I've been feeling a little blue.  I went to the AlpKit Big Shake Out as I mentioned in my previous blog and I intend to put some pics up from the the final of round 6 of the ISCF World Bouldering Comp later when I get chance.  I drank quite  a bit of booze (not getting hammered or anything but too much none the less) over the weekend and felt aweful early week with a bad stomach.  I tried climbing at Ippikins with the club and did crap which got me down even more.  I decided that I needed to kick it in to touch and did a duathlon in the gym.  I was aiming for 10k run, 20k bike and 5km run but didn't have time so settled for 4.1 mile run, 10km bike and 5km run which I did in under 1:30 and blew the cobwebs away.  I got cramp on the treadmill on the second running session but ran through it and since my calf has been a little tender but its nothing serious.  I exercised the following lunchtime by doing a mile run, a mile cross train and a mile on the bike.  Nothing serious but a good stretch.  I then met Daz and his mate at Newport for some Bouldering which wasn't bad but I haven't progressed at all - I need to get on it a little more really.

I'm hoping to get some cardio of some form tonight, perhaps a run or swim but I've got some other things I need to do too.  It's only a week until the Alps and after 2 hard days of training I don't feel quite so frumpy as after the weekend.  Maybe it's in my head?  I've been looking at the Ultra Running Man book which a friend lent me.  It's getting me inspired again.  I think I will start a weights program when I return from the Alps and get a finger board too.  I also had a go on the AlpKit FigFours at the Cliffhanger festival and I'm definitately going to buy a pair when I return.  

Alpkit FigFours

I've got plans to up my mileage (with a plan to run an ultra event hopefully - well trott).  For now I can't look at any more Alps stuff, it's getting kind of boring - I just want to do it!  Bored of pictures, stories, routes, books etc.

The compiles finished...... photos of the ISCF Bouldering Comp soon :)

Mind the birds!

Neither Chris or I could climb on Tuesday as we both had less exciting but more pressing things to do but I managed to get a cracking run in at lunchtime.  I was aiming to do a sub 50 minute 10k and jumped on the treadmill at lunchtime with a gradient of 3% and ramped the speed up to 7.8mph.  I sustained this really well but really started to cook towards the end and had 3 short walks (literally a couple of steps), but by the time I was at 5 miles I was absolutely busting for the loo!  I managed to get to 6 miles but couldn't risk the extra 0.2 miles and jumped off and ran to the loo.  I managed 46:31 for 6 miles so I'm really chuffed.  I think given a cooler day I could do 10k in less than 46 mins which would be excellent.  I'll have to try that on a flatish road or grass circuit when it is cooler.

Anyway I picked up Chris from his house yesterday and we headed to Pontesford.  There are some Peregrine Falcons nesting so the crag is heavily restricted.  First off Chris lead Oak Tree Wall Direct (VDiff), between us we have a lot of gear now as my DMM Dragon cams arrived (I'm very pleased with them!  £115 for a size 2,3 and 4 from http://www.theoutdoorshop.com which is quite a bargain :)  Chris set off up the route with enough gear to free climb El Cap!

Chris leading Oak Tree Wall Direct (VDiff*)

I scampered up and got the gear out and was thinking about my next climb.  I thought I'd like to try the HS 4a Eliminate G route but to be honest I wasn't really feeling it, it wasn't inspiring me.  I got the iPhone out and looked at the topo from http://www.westmidlandsrock.co.uk/.  Because of the restrictions on the wall due to the birds nesting I thought it would be best to go and have a go on the Pontesbury Needle which is at the bottom of the crag.  There are two severe routes on it as well as a couple of moderates and a couple of E grades.  I picked Hawthorn Crack (S 4a*).  The climbing wasn't too bad once committed but it did take a little time to make sure I was confident about linking up the moves which in the end were fairly static.  Because the crack runs up to the right you can push yourself back against the wall to find stability and in doing so and blindly pulling up the rope I ended up clipping the rope from below another piece of protection.  I didn't realise this until after I'd finished the route, I think it would of still been effective but less than ideal as it would of put strain on two bits of gear in a kind of pulling fashion.  I used mostly cams on the route (mainly because of ease of placement but you could get away with much less gear than what I took, in actual fact having a lot of gear in small places is a hinderance).  I was pretty pleased to top out, it's a nice route but the first part is very broken and just a scramble - the crux is one move but well protected so nice for a step up in grade for VDiff leaders.

Me leading Hawthorn Crack (S 4a*), approaching the crack

Me leading Hawthorn Crack at the crux

Chris seconding, just reaching the crack

Chris seconding, pulling around the bulge

I'm off to the AlpKit Big Shake Out which runs along side the Cliffhanger festival in the Peak District over the weekend with my family (Kate, Grace and her mate) so I should get some photos to post of various outdoor activities including the World Bouldering Championship.  I'm really looking forward to it and am hoping the weather is kind to us.  

On a seperate note; all in all the cardio and climbing are in a good state so I'm hoping the Alps should go very smoothly in a couple of weeks time :)  Here is a description of the route I'm most looking forward to   attempting in the Alps on Tour Ronde (conditions/bottle permitting!).  I think I have got everything I need now apart from a bit of tat for abseiling.