Brecons with WMC

Jo and I headed down to meet the club at the Llangorse meet a couple of weekends ago with a bunch of beer and a bottle of wine ready for the obligatory drinking.  We didn't arrive until around 8pm ish and proceeded to crack open some ales.  I've not really played dominoes with the club but sat and had a few games and enjoyed it - despite not being able to hold my dommies like a "mon"!  Jo, Geordie and I stayed up drinking until about 1pm ish.  Nice prep for a day out on the hill!

We got up and out around 9am, feeling a bit rough but with a belly full of porridge for a day out on the hill.  We'd got a route planned which I'd made a GPX for.  We drove through Brecon and on for about 30 mins to Glyntawe and set out, it was a beautiful day.

After a short steep pull we were up to the ridge of Fan Hir, this was the majority of the height gain for the day and the views were cracking.

Me on the ridge to Fan Hir

We carried on along the ridge, enjoying the views.  With a small down and up we were on the summit of Fan Brycheiniog with a trig point (if memory serves me right).

Jo at the trig of Fan Brycheiniog

We stopped for a spot of lunch and then started up to the final summit of the ridge; Bannau Sir Gaer, for the most spectular view of the day above Llyn-y-Fan which has a bothy on its shore.

Jo above Llyn-y-fan

At this point we deviated from the beaten track to head for the final summit of the day; Garreg Las.  This is the great thing with bagging hills, it often takes you to places you wouldn't normally go.  The three hills we did previously would seem like an obvious route and Garreg Las is out of the way and over rougher ground with a poorly defined path.  We didn't really try and get onto the col between Garreg Las and Carreg yr Ogof, instead opting for a direct line to the stone shelters at the summit.

Jo and I in the shelter on the summit of Garreg Las

We dropped back down onto the col and then over Esgair Ddu and down the other side and crossed the stream, from here on there were loads of swallow holes and a pot hole - if it hadn't been getting late I would like to have looked for it.  After a short pull over the small hill of Banwen Gwyn we skirted around Disgwylfa to drop down to the Campsite and a short walk back car, we just got back as the light was fading.

I was pretty zonked after not having a full day in the hills for ages.  We walked down from the farm we were staying at to Llangorse for some grub, where Jason a new guy to the WMC was on a blind date - much to the mocking of some of the guys in the club.  He had a smile on his face so I guess it was going well....  We stayed for a quick drink and had a Pendryn before walking back.  We drank the rest of the booze and got some kip.

The next day we rolled out of bed at 9am and thought about going for a walk, or maybe climbing at the wall in the accommodation but apparently you needed to join and therefore it was quick steep in cost!  We had a look and it looked quite sweet.  We hatched a plan to head back via Church Stretton as I kept promising to show Jo the Shropshire Hills every time we were over.  We had a spot of food at the top of the burway as a nice way to end the weekend.

Since then I've been running more and climbing every tuesday.  I also went along to meet some of the guys at the bowline climbing club at their AGM.  I got a couple of numbers for some of the guys and hope to do some running and climbing with them this year now meeting the WMC guys is so difficult in the week.

WMC Scotland 2011

With crap (by which I mean no) preparation and a little trepidation I set off for the 2011 WMC Scotland meet.  The blog post is a little late as I've had a lot going on and no internet connection at home but I'm all up and running now so here is what I can recall!

Day 1 - Ring of Steall

I decided to go out on my todd for this one.  I hadn't been out for a while so I wanted to go at my own pace and over the past 6 months I've had a lot on so time on my own to relax seemed the order of the day.  I got up and drove down Glen Nevis and parked up.  After a short walk the beautiful Steall falls came into view.

Steall Falls

I had fun crossing the wire bridge and made my way past Steall falls and up the track before it dissapeared under snow and avalanche debris.  I found it tough going to be honest and as I got up to a gully I thought I'd climb up that.  A bit stupid really as a) the snow wasn't in good condition, b) I was on my own and c) the Ring of Steall is hard enough as it is without mucking around.  All that said I was there for the snow and it was good fun, even if a little sketchy at points because it got quite steep on powdery snow :S

Wire Bridge

View up to An Gearanach

I slowed down after getting up and finally plodded up to the top of An Gearanach, by this point it got bloody cold and windy.  I really started buzzing as I got out on the ridge, it was real Scottish weather.  It is what I love about mountaineering and being alone really added to it.  Rather stupidly I'd got my phone in my map case which was around my neck and under my arm, because of the strong winds it kept smacking me in the face so I decided to stop and take it off.  I think by this point I'd made it An Garbhanach.  As I took the map case off the wind whipped my case off and over the edge of the ridge.  I looked over the edge and could see it perched on the edge of a steep drop.  

Me on the ridge

I was really annoyed but I'd only just paid £150 excess for a lost phone and I didn't want to lose it and decided if I took my time I'd be ok.  I climbed down making sure everything was bomber planted and then scampered back up to get my pole.  I fully extended it and climbed back down.  It wouldn't reach and I tried to get lower but my cramps where on a rocky slab and I was really worried.  I planted my axe really good and got my feet as good as I could and leaned down.  Fully stretched I managed to get the the map case strap around the pole and scampered back up.  I was pretty sketched out after that and running late with visibility of just a few feet I decided to turn back.  All in all a good first day though.

View on the way back down

Day 2 - Anonach Mor

After chatting with a few guys in the Chalet I agreed to try Right Twin with two guys from the club.  We got the ski lift up and then started walking around the Aonach an Nid.  It was snowing and we were breaking trail (at least the other Dan was).  I found it really hard going, it didn't help that I managed to fall into a rabbit hole and twist my knee although this didn't become noticeable until coming down.  As we got near the first chairlift we stopped to put our crampons on.

Me getting geared up

We carried on the next cable car and a combination of the snow conditions, my fitness and the other guys lack of experience was playing on my mind.  As we got up a guide was doing skills with a couple of ladies and stated he thought there was a good chance of avalanche.  We ate some food and chatted before climbing up onto the ridge overlooking the crag where Right Twin (II) is.  It was a complete white out but the cloud broke slightly for a few seconds while I had the camera in my hands.

East face of Aonach Mor

The top of the col was quite corniced but I could see a gap and decided that we'd try and get through that and on to the summit.  I decided to put my googles on which was a good idea.  We decided to eat a little food before setting off.

Me on the ridge

We walked up and it slowly steepened until we were using one axe daggering and using our hand for support.  I was having a job kicking steps because the snow was soft and as we went into the most recessed part the spindrift had gathered which made it difficult to get purchase.

Dan Box topping out

Me on the summit of Aonach Mor with Carn Mor Dearg in the distance

We walked back down following the ski routes.  By this point my knee was pretty sore from the rabbit hole earlier and I was feeling the strain of two days in the hills.  I was glad to get back to the ski centre and get down.  A nice day out though, even without the route.  Apparently the place to be was the west face, but still a good day out!

Day 3 to 5 - Tatting around

The next day I was pretty achey and decided to head to Fort William to the leisure club for a soak and relax.  It was my turn to cook so I did venison in red wine with a gorgonzola scone and roast spuds which worked out well!  

The next day the weather was aweful so I headed to the Ice Factor.  Nobody was up for climbing on the indoor ice so I did some bouldering.  I don't know why, maybe confidence but I didn't fancy doing the routes.  After a couple of hours I was pumped!

The day after I stayed in and feeling crappy from lack of fitness decided to go for a run behind the chalets.  I did 5 miles with just under 1100ft of ascent.  Not too bad!

Day 6 - Stob Coire Raineach (Buachaille Etive Beag)

On the final day I wanted to bag another Munro and decided to get an easy one under my belt.  Although I had the option to do Stob Dubh too if I felt like it.  Me and Dan Box set off and again my legs felt like lead, even though I had a tiny sack on (with no crampons in it).   As we made it up the weather turned grim and we got blasted with hailstones.  I was wishing I'd made some room for them in my sack!  By the time we got back to the col between Raineach and Stob Dubh I was soaked and cold and given the strength of the wind wussed out going over the ridge to Stob Dubh.  

Me on the summit of Stob Coire Raineach getting blasted by hailstones

We ended up back at Ice Factor for a coffee before going home to get changed.  I've left out most of the social stuff and there was plenty all week but we ended up in the Clachaig Inn for tea.  I had a venison burger and loads of beer which was then swilled down with Whisky at the pub near the chalets.  I didn't get to bed until at least 2:30am and I was pretty rough for the drive home!

All in all a good week but more for relaxing and refocusing as I was dissapointed with my fitness.  I really need to get on this!

Rick The Hitman "Fatton"

I won't make this a long one, but since the alps I've gotten fat.  Why?  A couple of reasons but the main one being work.  I'm addressing this now and I'm thirsty for getting back to good nick.  The last "bout" of training saw me pushing my speed and thus my confidence in my ability to run 7-7:30 minute miles is there.  It's just a case of grinding through it.

I tinkered with a few runs over the past few weeks but I think I'm getting back into a habit which is good.  Sadly I've not been able to get back into the climbing yet, I've been once since the alps and my weight and decreased grip were depressing.  I've moved home so I need to suss out the new wall.  I also need to get some routes sorted around where I live.

I'm off to do an LDWA event on the weekend, I know its Christmas and a bad time to start, but the truth is there is no bad time :)

I'll do a post next week with info on how the LDWA event goes, I'll only be walking this time but I'll be back to running them soon.

Hopefully I will be in good nick before the next bout of Winter comes and/or for February when I'm off to Scotland with the WMC.  Speaking of which I'm thinking about joining another club local to my new place so I can get some climbing partners.  Maybe a bit of running and bouldering first so I don't embarrass myself :s

Alps 2010 - Best of the Rest

I didn't manage to get up to the Col du Midi the following day as the weather came in. I was pretty concerned with the amount of precipitation that I wouldn't be able to find the gear.  I went up alone and the ridge had some powder on it which made it easier for me (I also used one of my poles which helped too).  As a result of the new snow the crevasses had been covered on the bank down to the col.  I refused the offer of roping up with two lads also on a retrieval mission and steamed down in the style you run down scree.  I stopped a couple of feet short of a covered crevasse, that would of made me look like a bit of a plonker after refusing the offer to tie in!  All the tents under the Cosmiques Hut were gone and I was worried I'd never find the gear.  The deep holes were just a couple of inches raised lump!  I started digging in one site but gave up and moved to another.  After digging down a couple of feet I found Chris's bag and proceeded to dig until I had all the gear.  Going back up the ridge was more unnerving in contemplation that actually doing it.  I had to step across to let 2 teams of 3 roped up people passed.  It's always nicer going up!  I got down and Chris had the gear packed up so I booked the ferry and we got on our way.  After dropping Chris off at St Albans I drove back to Telford and made it back just after 4am!

I've been very busy at work this week so I've not gotten around to putting up the best of the photos from my compact camera (I forgot to take the cable to Chamonix and couldn't get hold of one there).  Without further ado....

Cosmiques Arete

View from the ice cave exit to the Vallee Blanche

Wider initial part of the ridge to the Vallee Blanche

Steeper, narrower corner on the ridge - gives a good sense for the exposure!

Me posing on Cosmiques Arete

The largest of the Gendarmes

Chris and I under the crux

Me waiting to bring up Chris on the short crux pitch

The narrow section after the crux (I squeezed down it!)

Chris on the steeper chimney final section

Albert Premier Hut

Chris freezing on the chairlift, looks like Wales!

Me in a crevasse :)

Looking down the crevasse

Video of me in the crevasse on the Glacier du Tour

Chris starting out on the Glacier du Tour for Tete Blanche (~5am)

Chris seconding the Col du Tour

Chris in the Col du Tour

Since I've been back I've been busy with work and I've made a conscious decision to have a week off an physical activities as I've been at it hard for around 9 months!  This week I've been over indulging in food quantity and quality as well as alcohol.  I've been itching to get back into it but resisted as I think a break is a good thing.  I've got some more big goals in my mind and I'll put these up and my training ideas for the foreseeable future soon.

Alps 2010 - Mont Blanc (Day 12 & 13)

We had kind of settled on doing the Three Monts route to the summit of Mont Blanc.  This involves climbing to the shoulder (a few metres short of the summit around 4100m) of Mont Blanc du Tacul (4248m) before dropping into the Col Maudit (4035m) and then climbing the north face of Mont Maudit (4465m) to the Col du Mont Maudit (4345m), on the other side of this is the Col de Brenva (4303m) which then leads via the Mer de la Cote and Plateau du Petits Rochers Rouge (around 4550m) to the summit of Mont Blanc (4808m).  We had decided this on the basis that the Grand Colouir on the Aiguille du Gouter (normal/ordinary route) was suffering from bad rock fall, although we had left it in mind that we could descend this way depending on how things panned out.  We had originally decided that we would get up at  5am and get the first cable car to the Aiguille du Midi and start the route in the morning, which apparently is a valid option although upon hearing that the weather wouldn't be good in the afternoon we decided to make a last minute dash and bivi on the Vallee Blanche.  We only just made it!

You can just make out the Aiguille du Midi hiding in the clouds, from the Plan de Aiguille Station (half way)

We reached the Midi station just before closing and went in the cafe for some last minute grub.  While I ran to get the tickets for the cable car Chris had got some bread and ham to take onto the Vallee Blanche for breakfast/tea.  We left it a little while and I became a bit overwhelmed with nerves as the route is quite grand, most of it above 4000m and I was still worried about the acclimbatisation issue of my last trip.  We headed down from the Midi station down the dreaded snow slope, I really hate this slope, one false move and your a goner!  When I get my photos off the other camera you'll see what I mean!  We headed to the Cosmiques Hut as it has a reputation for being one of the nicest in the Mont Blanc Massif, but after enquiring they were full so we headed down with all the other dossers on the Vallee Blanche and got digging a snow pit with a wall around it to keep the wind at bay.  

Bivouac on the Vallee Blanche

We settled into the bivi gear and got the bread and ham on the go.  After a bit of music to calm my nerves I got my head down for the sum total of 2 hours!  I woke up and couldn't get to sleep, my chest felt strange and I kept wanting to sit up.  I think paranoia!  I looked behind me and there was already a party nearing the summit of the Tacul so I asked Chris if he was asleep and suggested we cracked on.

Head torches stream out of the Cosmiques Hut under the Milky Way

4 parties (head torches) visible on the North Face of the Tacul

So we got too it.  Whilst I took along the camera there wasn't a lot of opportunity to stop and get it out as we were more concerned with cracking on and getting the route done.  The reason I was worried the previous day is I'd noticed a number of large crevasses on the face and thought (and had read) that the Col du Mont Maudit was steep and possibly ice.  I would normally jump at this but at nearly 4500m, not a place for things to go wrong!  I have an immense amount of respect for this mountain range.  We trundled across the Col du Midi to the foot of the Tacul and started up it.  We seemed to be making good progress, we got overtook by a couple of groups but were generally holding our own for pace.  As the slope started to level out I knew the massive crevasse I'd spied would be looming.  And how to cross this  2-3m beast?  With an aluminum ladder that had frozen in place of course!  I cracked on and got over it ok and Chris followed.  We were roped up and had a very minimal rack (ice screw, prussiks, belay plate and a medium sling) and were short roped.  Nothing went wrong and we proceeded to another crevasse higher up which involved bringing your boot up to hip height, swinging your axe and getting up it!  There were a couple of smaller crevasses on the face but we just stepped over or around these.  The snow was quite powdery and with the small army moving up was getting mushed up.  I was pleased when we reached Col Maudit and we stopped to take on a little food.

Climbers preparing under Maudit, you can see the head torches on the North Face, the highest are at the Col du Mont Maudit

We got stuck into Maudit which felt a bit steeper but passed well enough until we hit the bottleneck of the Col du Mont Maudit.  I was quite surprised by this because although the 3 Monts Traverse is harder than the Gouter Route its still done by Joe Public after a mountain experience.  I wasn't expecting 30m of ice at 50 degrees!  There were fixed ropes from about 5-10m but the stream of people dinner plating ice meant I was hit on the helmet by about 3 lumps of ice the size of a big fist!  Not what you want when your climbing with no protection other than crampons, one axe and another hand clinging to a rope!  I'd started the climb with just my thinish Marmot gloves and as I neared the Col I was frozen to the bone!  I was also greeted by a man frantically trying to reattach a crampon to the foot of a woman who was looking very nervous at the top of the ice pitch!  I wasn't in a good position and spied some ice and rock to the right of her and decided to rock up this.  A bit silly perhaps in retrospect with no protection but great fun, just make sure you axe and feet are placed well!  I bought up a nervous looking Chris on a spike belay to see the Mer de la Cote.  At this point I was so cold it was untrue, the wind picked up and I was colder than I've ever been!  I got the Dachsteins out and put those over my Marmot gloves.  We walked over dithering and I could see the summit of Mont Blanc briefly and knew we still had a way to go.  We started up the final face of Mont Blanc and made it to the Plateau Petits Rochers Rouge after what seemed like an eternity!  There was still more to go, it never seemed to end and breathing is hard at nearly 5000m no matter how well acclimbatised you are!  Incidently my plan this time worked a treat and I didn't feel ill in the slightest :)  After some more slogging, and some more freezing all the way (and I mean freezing, it was a white out with winds strong enough to blow you over and my eyelashes had big lumps of ice on them) we finally made it.  It was really mentally draining, I just wanted to get in a sauna!  We stayed for a while on the summit under the face to shelter us from the wind but it was still soooooo cold!

Chris and I on the summit of Mont Blanc

Me at the summit of Mont Blanc (I think this pic gives a better feeling for what it was like - you can see some climbers coming on to the summit ridge)

Well as you can see it was cold, and the view wasn't up to much and after climbing ladders over crevasses and 50 degree ice with no protection we didn't fancy reversing the route and since we knew the Gouter route we thought we'd chance the stone fall!  We headed back over Bosses Ridge which was less fierce than I thought it might be, although you still wouldn't want to fall off it!  This lead us to the Vallot hut which whilst still in white out conditions was out of the wind.  Chris took a photo of my verglassed face!

Me cold and icy!

After this we followed tracks down to find the Dome du Gouter and back to familar territory and visibility!  It's funny how weather in the mountains works, and how the forecasts often don't!  We stopped off at the Gouter hut which is still a dump but it appears they have started building the new one which will be interesting, although I'm not sure what routes I'd want to do that end up there?  Bionassay Ridge maybe?  We stayed and Chris ate an omelet and I wolfed down some cake bar things I'd took along.  We got on the Aiguille du Gouter which is a horrible route full of loose stone.  4 people died last week in a single incident I believe.  The problem is as the snow melts it defrosts the rocks and they come flying down something called the Grand Colouir.  I saw a load at the start and had to wait for 10 minutes before making a frentic dash!  Chris was waiting for me at the bottom as I bumped into a brit guide I'd met earlier in the week and got chatting.  As we prepared to move off we heard a load of frentic shouting in Spanish, as we looked up there was a boulder the size of a breeze block hurtling down.  I went to leg it and nearly ran in front of it!  As if the climbing weren't frantic enough!  We made it down to the Nig d'Aigle and got suckered into a train trip, cable car and bus journey that seemed to last for ever when all you want to do is put down your sack, take off your boots and rest your achy bones!  The bivi gear is still in the snow ditch, the weather crap now so I'll be heading up tomorrow to collect!

Alps 2010 - North Face of Tete Blanche (Day 9)

After quite a comfortable nights sleep I was raring to go at 4am.  We had been told by everyone (the mountain office, guides and hut) that Tete Blanche (3429m) north face was not in condition because of the massive bergshrund and thin conditions.  I wanted to see for myself!  Dan and Tariq were up in the hut too, they were making an early start for the Aiguille du Tour, although I'm not sure which summit.

Pre dawn start, overlooking the hut and Tour Glacier

We dropped from the hut straight onto the glacier and roped up although we should of carried on along the ridge to gain the glacier so as to not have to regain the height.  The walk wasn't too bad we drudged up one hill to the Signal Reily and turned back towards the Aiguille du Tour.  A bit more walking saw us at the foot of the Col Superior du Tour.

Foot of Col Superior du Tour

We carried on as if to follow the ordinary route up Tete Blanche but then peeled off up the glacier to hit the Col du Tour.  Because of the weather it was a little mixed route which was good fun.  We moved together on it mostly although about half way up I put a sling on a spike to secure Chris.

Col du Tour just left of centre, see people on top right for perspective!

As we gained the top of the col we were greeted with the amazing view of the Plateau du Trient and Switzerland.  To the right we could see the bad conditions on the Tete Blanche North Face.

Chris in front of the North Face of Tete Blanche, overlooking the Plateau du Trient

We dropped down onto the Plateau du Trient which is roughly level with the Col du Tour and walked along towards the north face.  If you look carefully at the photo above you can see a colouir on the right hand side of the face.  We moved along to this and I decided we should give it a go to gain the west ridge.  At first the snow was quite good neve but this meant moving around in the colouir a little to find the best snow/ice.

Chris in the colouir to the right of the north face of Tete Blanche

At the top of the colouir I could of continued up, over rock but given we had no gear and the snow was dodgy I didn't fancy it, or traverse right over a boulder with soft snow which I didn't fancy either!  I tried to climb the rock but because of the heat it was all soft and scree was coming away in my hand.  I decided to hook my axes on the rock and move quickly over the soft snow.  I was glad to reach the shoulder where I bought up Chris.  At this point I saw some climbers crossing the bergshrund and thought I would join the North Face.  Chris wasn't so keen on the idea so we untied from the rope and Chris took it up the ridge to the summit and I soloed the face.  For the most part it was fairly good condition but there was a couple of occasions when I was scratching around in powder and just had to kick my feet hard and hope!  As I got further to the top the snow turned to ice and the axe placements became more solid but the angle became more vertical, I'm guessing 60 degrees!  Again it was slightly sketchy because the top was loose scree and boulders.  I used my hands at the top, placing my axes behind a rock first and then moving.  I was pretty chuffed to make the summit.

Looking down the North Face of Tete Blanche from the summit.  You can see the other party, the bergshrund below them and my tracks heading out from the shoulder

There were a few more rocks to scramble over to get to the summit where I met Chris and we spent a long time relaxing on the summit in the sun.  After about an hour we decided that we couldn't be bothered with the plod up Petite Fourche which was just over the ridge, over the Col du Blanc.

Chris on the summit of Tete Blanche

After relaxing on the summit we decided to head across the Col du Blanc which can be used to abseil down in to the Swiss side and took some photos, it really is a massive wall of ice - not something you'd want to fall down but just a 30m abseil then you can descend safely with crampons.  

Me above the Col du Blanc with Petite Fourche behind

We followed the normal route of Tete Blanche back and got back in plenty of time.  We had some food and went for a snooze before being woken up for the main meal.  Fish soup! Not just any fish either!  Tinned fish!  Blimey I don't know how I managed a bowlful!  It was duck and beans for the main course though so not all bad.  We were all tucked up in bed ready for kip by 8pm.

Alps 2010 - Albert Premier Hut (Day 8)

After Cosmiques we'd been romping around for a few days and were knackered so we slept until late and mostly ate all day.  The weather forecast for the next day had been bad and the heavens opened Thursday night and thunderstorms continued for most of the night, friday morning with it reducing to just heavy rain in the afternoon.  It gave us chance to have a mooch around Chamonix.

We got up fairly late on Saturday morning and packed the bags with a full trad (6 cams & full set of nuts) and ice rack (7 screws) but had places and food booked in the Albert Premier hut.  The bags were still heavy as we had two technical axes this time and again we both lugged a 60m rope each.  We headed down from the campsite to the train station at Les Praz, we headed on the train to Le Tour were we first lugged up a hill and then jumped on the cable car to Charamillion and then further up on the ski lift to Balme.  Its bloody cold on the ski lift in just a t-shirt :)  I couldn't find any cables to connect up my compact camera and didn't want to waste 30 euros on a card reader so my compact camera pictures will have to wait unfortunately!

The path after the ski lift looked more like Wales than the Alps, I guess because of the hot summer!

Me on the path to the Albert Premier Hut

After some more drudging along a fairly easy path, much easier than the Envers hut we turned a corner to gain a view of the Tour Glacier.  We had previously been able to see just the tip from down in Le Tour.  We chatted to a french couple and exchanged photos.

Chris and I on the path to Albert Premier Hut with the Tour Glacier behind

A little more walking with a couple of sections of iron (which aren't really needed) and we could see the moraine which led up to the Albert Premier Hut with the Aiguille du Chardonnet behind.  We had planned to do the Migot Spur on the Chardonnet but had been told it wasn't in condition, we still took the gear just in case the cold snap had bought it back into condition.

Albert Premier Hut on the left, Tour Glacier and the Aiguille du Chardonnet behind

The Albert Premier Hut is not the nicest place in the world.  French alpine huts aren't reknown for their cleanliness and given that most of the toilet are a hole in the ground (or those damn porcelain squat jobbies) this was no different.  We arrived around 5:30pm and as dinner wasn't until 7:10pm we decided to sort the gear out and get out on the glacier with the screws and axes.  We put in 4 or 5 screws and Chris lowered me on to a ledge in a crevasse which I guess was around 15-20m deep, although the crevasse fell away deeper to the left and right of me (I've got some pics and a little video on the compact, I'll put them up when I get home) I climbed out quickly and we scampered back for tea.  We were in bed early for a 4am start on Tete Blanche and Petite Fourche.