East Face of Tryfan

I'd originally planned to do First Pinnacle Rib (VDiff) and have a stab at the Yellow Slab (4b I think or maybe 4a) but it wasn't to be.  We set off at 7am to get to Capel Curig by 9am to pick up a jacket I had reserved.  The Arc Teryx Epsilion Hoody SV (which turned out to be awesome :)

This is part of my kit for the alps.  I'll be sleeping in it with a Mammut Stratus Flash belay jacket over and maybe my hardshell too (although it will probably be sweaty!) and on the bottom half will be an AlpKit Pipedream 200 half sleeping bag.  I hope I don't get too cold but should be ok :)

Anyway we didn't get to the foot of Tryfan until a bit later and then we got a bit lost and ended up arsing about climbing up sketchy chossy boulders to regain the path eventually (albeit a little hot and sweaty).  We marched up passed Grooved Arete (HVD) and past the North Buttress but First Pinnacle Rib was busy so we quickly got back to Grooved Arete and geared up.  I lead the first pitch which I though was a little tougher than I thought it would be.  After I'd got up the groove I tried to step on a flake and go straight up which i thought was possible but I bottled out as I didn't fancy peeling off the hand jams.  It certainly felt much harder than a HVD!  I scooted up a bit more over fairly easy climbing and bought Chris up.

Chris seconding the first pitch of Grooved Arete (HVD)

Chris then went on to lead the second pitch continuing up the grooved arete.  After this pitch I led the first which was pretty easy and led out to a walk over to beneath the grooved arete again (I think this was considered P4 but it was just a walk).

Chris leading pitch 2

Chris then started up the fifth pitch which was the most sustained climbing so far and got steeper as it went on, culminating in a final twitchy move pulling onto a kind of left bridging.  This was pretty committing and I was glad to top out to the belay ledge referred to as the 'Haven' (not as much as I bet Chris was).

Me making arriving at the 'Haven'

After this pitch I made my way up the crack (protecting it quite a lot) before stepping out onto the infamous Knight's Slab.  I worked my way up to the top  wall of the slab and then worked across.  It is a very exposed move onto a tiny very exposed ledge.  I got three nuts in for a belay and was hanging off them bringing Chris up.

Chris on Knight's Move

Chris stepped over and continued up the next pitch, a corner crack onto a big ledge.  This climbing was continued and the route was really gathering momentum at this point from the broken pitches at the bottom (P1, P2, P3 and the walk of P4).

Me hanging off the mega exposed belay after Knight's Move

Me topping out on pitch 7.

The guidebook (North Wales Ground Up) said something to the effect of royalty should continue up over steeper ground or you can walk off.  I led this pitch and it started off slightly overhanging before moving around the corner and and climbing a slab with a crack.  This felt quite bold.  I then went on and tried to climb a chossy wall.  I stuck a bit of gear in above me and then tried before backing off.  I got back on and this time my hand slipped off all the crap and i fell onto the ledge below.  Good fun but I decided to go around a bit further and it still worked out quite tough but not so chossy.  I thought this pitch was perhaps a bit off piste and harder.  Generally I think that the route was harder than a HVD, but it is a mountain route!

Chris topping out on the final pitch.

Finally... Tryfan from the car.

Crazy midnight runs in the Malverns!

I've been busting to get out and do a run along the Malvern ridge which I make to be between 8-9 miles long so a 16-18 mile round trip.  I decided that on Wednesday given the lack of midweek races I'd head over after work.  I got stuck behind at work until late and when I checked my forerunner I hadn't loaded the route as I thought so I got my laptop out.  Unfortunately technical difficulties (along with the working late) I didn't leave the office until around 9pm and so arrived at Malvern around 10pm!  I donned my Myo RXP head torch and headed off.  I quickly found that not using a route you've made yourself and not having a map can cause you a right headache!  I did a lot of faffing around climbing up bits of rock and through brambles trying to get to the path on the route.  Lots of wasted time but eventually I got going.  The running was quite good although I had to keep stopping, but there was 2136ft of climbing!  All in all I felt good but a bit dissapointed about the navigation.  The fact it was very foggy after the rain didn't help!  The view from the top is beautiful at night albeit cold and very windy!

My best friend the Forerunner 305 with the town of Malvern illuminated below in the background.

Whilst running back I got lost some more and was getting a bit sleepy and tired (it was around midnight!) and stumbled and tripped and took a roll!  I gave myself a rollocking and tried to pay more attention.  I peeled off and headed where I thought best which got me lost a bit more!  I eventually made it back to the car at 12:45!  I was happy to be in bed by 2am (and on a school night!)  The running times were mucked up by the nav and terrain but I felt strong running up the hills :)  I can't wait to get back and have a go in the light next time!

Photography and bouldering!

I've been looking into photography recently as I'm keen to do a good job of photographing and filming my time in the alps.  As such I've been looking at hiring a lens from http://www.lensesforhire.co.uk/.  I'm looking to get a 10-20mm ultra wide angle lens as I think this will work best for landscapes and help take shots of me or Chris climbing whilst getting some background in too.  I've been looking into getting a holster style holder for my camera which I will put on the hip strap of my rucksack.  This I'm yet to decide on, and I've got a couple more articles to read on http://www.ukclimbing.com/.

With all this in mind when I headed down to Shropshire Climbing Centre for a spot of bouldering.  This felt really good and my climbing is still improving.  I'm sure the weight loss from running is still improving me no end :)  Anyway I wanted to try out some climbing photography so I climbed up and took some of Chris doing a problem along the edge of the roof.

I also set up the exposure and tried to get some dynamic shots but they didn't quite work out how I wanted, although not too bad!

Leading a HS and a PB 5km

After the excitment of the Stanage Stumble I got back out for a recovery run at work at dinner time.  I started quickly which was a mistake but I did 4.something miles in a reasonable time and picked up again toward the end.  It did me a lot of good to stretch my pins out.  I've been waiting to post on here for a while but I've been waiting on pics from Brian Smith who photographs more of the athletics stuff.  I also think Chris has some photos of me climbing at Llanymynech.  If they turn up I'll post em as I know it more interesting to look at photos than read my gumpf!

On to Llanymynech:  I managed to wangle leaving work early after working through my lunch.  It's a complete pain in the arse to drive from Coventry to anywhere further than Shrewsbury and given half the Tuesday meets are at Llanymynech, Trevor or World's end it rare I get to go.  Enough ranting.  I got to the crag early and warmed up on 'Foreign Muck' Fr6a+ which didn't seem technically so hard but more psychologically.  I think getting some indoor falls leading in might help.  I don't have any photos of this but essentially it scoots up to an overhang which you work underneath and then round the side.  It took me a while to "man up" and get under the overhang but it felt good and at least in terms of technique and strength I'm well within my grade.  After this I belayed Phil (from the WMC) up on a top rope and then me and Chris made our way over to cul-de-sac to do some trad leading.  Chris did a VDiff called Ca Va! and I followed up.  I abseiled back down and then lead Merde (HS 4a).  What can I say, well..... Merde!  This route is very easy but so hard to protect!  I got gear in half way up but then it ran out!  I then had to top out onto a horrible slope which was covered in loose scree and dry mud!  Pretty nerve racking stuff as I'd of taken a big fall!  It got dark by the time I got chris up and I abbed back down and we left.  All in all I was very pleased with the routes I lead (both sport and trad) and I'm progressing nicely!

On Wednesday it was time for my weekly fell/short race and so I headed to Dawley for the Phoenix Flyer a "5km fast flat grass route".  It wasn't complete flat but near as damn it!  I started modestly almost right at the back but soon overtook a large number of people and settled into a good pace.  

I tired a bit and needed to slow down but picked it back up to finish.  I finished in 23:05 which is a personal best for 5km beating a previous treadmill time so I was well chuffed!  I think given the slowing down at about 2.5 mile I must of been moving really well as the average pace was 7:24/miles :)

Stanage Stumble

It's all about the running at the moment!  I got up early and dragged myself to the Peak District (unusually for me I didn't arrive late).  The event started at 9am with around 60 entrants, 50 of which were doing the 20 mile course with the other 10 doing a 10 mile course.  Of the 50 doing the 20 mile course, 9 had declared as runners.  We all set off at 9am and I found myself running behind someone who I knew I wasn't going to be able to keep up with.  The first 5 miles are a steady pull to the maximum height and I found my achilles tendon and calf very tight which was concerning.  During this time I was over taken by around 4 or 5 people but I was into 3rd place by the first checkpoint.  I managed to stay pretty much in sight of the 2nd place guy all the way to about 20 miles but then he got away from me.  The winner finished around 1hr - 1hr 30 mins ahead so no chance of catching him!  It was the first time that I'd been to Stanage and I was gutted not to be climbing, the grit looks awesome.

All in all  I was pleased with finishing 3rd (albeit with just 9 runners) and think I could of done a sub 6 hours, as I finished in just over 6:01.  I am also getting fairly happy with my race nutrition and hydration.  I've also managed not to pig out too much since then.  I was pretty well recovered by Sunday and managed to mow the lawn without moaning too much :)  Today I went running at lunch and did 4.5 mile, averaging 9 min/mile although there was one over 10, one at 8.5 and one even quicker towards the end.  I'm pleased with the progress and looking forward to the short, flat grass race I'm doing called the Phoenix Flyer. I'm hoping for sub 25 mins.  I'm climbing and Llanymynech tomorrow for the first time so hopefully I'll get some pics of that up tomorrow.  So far so good!  Should be in good nick for the alps at this rate and should manage 100 miles before the end of the month :)

Caradoc Classic

After the Bala Challenge I had planned to go climbing with Chris Ellis on Sunday however I ended up at the Ludlow Spring festival to enjoy some real ale and goat burgers (well deserved I thought).

Monday I got back to the gym and did a recovery run on the treadmill on a modest 3% gradient and did 3.5 miles in 27 mins. I felt good and could of opened the taps a lot more but I decided that I shouldn't and try my best to use it just to loosen up. I'm conscious of the fact that I don't want to overtrain too much as I've decided on an elaborate plan of training until I get to the Alps in mid July. Basically I'm planning to do a very easy recovery run (up to 5 miles but more likely 5km) on Mondays, climbing every Tuesday, a fell race or cross country race (up to 5 miles) on Wednesday then an LDWA event every weekend (at least 25 miles) with maybe some additional climbing on Sunday if it falls in and I'm not too tired. As a result of this plan I'm somewhat concerned about nutrition. I want to continue to lose weight and I feel I am doing so at a healthy rate but I'm concerned that because I have to travel from work to do an event that a) I'm eating late but more importantly b) I'm eating junk because of availability and worrying about a). I'm also trying to keep my eye on not pigging out too much after the longer events, because although you burn so many calories and get "the hunger" for a day or two its important it doesn't carry on for days. On the Tuesday I couldn't be bothered to go to the crag (Ippikins) as the weather was crap, its a massive rush and I haven't bouldered for a while and I'm big believer in the strength/technique gains from bouldering. I headed to the Shropshire Climbing Centre.  I was bouldering on my own but managed to hook up with a couple of the locals.  There has been a reset and I really enjoyed the new routes.  After 2.5-3 hours there I was knackered and went home.  I really need to make an effort to boulder more often now the weather is nice and the tendency is to hit the rock.

Yesterday my hips were feeling a bit tight and I was generally feeling a bit tired.  I also have decided to stop drinking caffinated coffee as its a quick win at the desk but I've been starting to feel a bit skatty in the afternoon so I've stopped.  By the time I got to Church Stretton for the Caradoc Classic I was ready for a kip rather than a fell race!  I decided to get my head down and go with the motto of "it's all miles on your feet".  I consciously started right at the back and overtook a few on the way to the foot of the hill.  The initial climb is a killer and I made it to the gate without being overtaken albeit walking as fast as I could (even this is hard graft).  I then struggled to gain a rhythm to the top and walked quite a bit more.  My lungs and legs felt ok, I just felt zonked out.  I had my sights on a guy in front of me although as we started down the steep bank I couldn't keep up because I was reluctant to push on steep ground feeling tired.  By the time we gained the path I settled into around 7:30 min pace and pushed hard to the end overtaking the guy in front and nearly catching the guy in front of him.  All in all not a brilliant race as it took 37 mins and I finished 104/118 (albeit with a tight pack) but I'll keep pushing, I think properly rested I could of done much better.  I think the next two days are are going to be for a good rest with some stretching and exercises on my gluts to get them ready for the Stanage Stumble (25 miles) on Saturday.

Heading down from the summit - pic from http://www.fellrunningpictures.co.uk/

Bala Challenge

I spent a little time Friday evening after work sorting out the route using Where's the path? and had it put on my Garmin Forerunner 305 (gps watch) ready although once I had it sorted out and my bag packed I didn't get to sleep until about 1am.  I keeping saying that I wanted to do a blog post on how I use the site with the watch but I'm too tired to do a good job of it now.  The Bala Challenge started at 8am for walkers and 9am for runners, I arrived at 9:30 as per normal; late!

On the event: Pleasant course which was well marked out with yellow tape where there was any doubt over direction which combined with the Forerunner meant I didn't have to refer to a map or instructions once although I did have to stop and think a couple of times.  The stewards were really friendly although as with all LDWA events they aren't the greatest when you ask for times or positions!  There was a great selection of grub on at the first checkpoint (the end of the 8 mile course) although I didn't fancy it and stuck to my gels and energy bars.  I think I have discovered that I can't run on gel's alone.  I haven't counted the gels yet but I found they did me well and I had about a quarter of an energy bar which helped settle my stomach a bit.  I drank about 2 litres of water with nuun which a friend recommended to me whilst doing the Bullock Smithy and I have to say although its a little expensive I'm pretty sold.  The course was scenic and undulated, after the final checkpoint it became much easier (even the "murder hill" as it's referred to in the guide wasn't too bad).  Over all a nice course and a very well organised event (the short 8 mile would be good for families).

Anyway over all I'm quite pleased.  When I got off the ridge and to the second checkpoint (same as the third) I was pleased to hear 10 people had done it already.  As I got to the third and final checkpoint I was told that only 25 people had passed through (including the 14 mile course).  I passed at least 20 people and of that I'd say at least 5 who had done the ridge too so that should put me in the top 5 although because of the staggered start I may of finished ranked higher on time and I was told I was 1 hour off the course record.  The fact there wasn't many runners this year or that gaining an hour isn't an easy thing is neither here nor there - I'm chuffed.  It also meant that I felt really confident and happy to keep passing people and have nobody pass me for my first go at running an LDWA event.  Below is an embedded view from Garmin Connect of my watch recording.

Sheinton Steeplechase

I ended up leading another route at Ippikins Rock after work for WMC meet and getting to bed late.  I also ran a quick 2 miles at lunch and did 3 sets of pull ups and the plank 3 times.  Not surprising that I felt a bit knackered after 4 days of climbing and all that!  Anyway I'd planned to do the Sheinton Steeplechase so I thought I'd give it a go!  I got there early (for a change!) and ran about half a mile to warm up.  I really was feeling tired and set off and was trying not to go too mad in the first mile but did a 7:46, not sustainable!  Anyway I slowed down a bit and lost about a minute crossing all the styles or waiting to and finished in a 28:51 which I was fairly pleased with and finished 49th of 66.  Considering how knackered I felt I was pleased with this.  Here is one a photo of me finishing strong and another in which you can see me chasing the guy in front from http://www.fellrunningpictures.co.uk./

Bala Challenge next on Saturday, I'll be interested to see how I get on over a distance of 20 miles with 4500ft of ascent but I'm not setting any goals other than to try my best and finish well!  Then I'm climbing in North Wales on Sunday with the club - until then rest!

Cornwall part 3!

Well things were going so well, I was keen to strike up another lead wherever we ended up and today that was Bosigran.  We ended up on the bit with Alison Rib overlooking Commando Ridge.  The sea colour under Commando ridge was an amazing turquoise and seemed to change as the tide did.  It's easy to be mesmerized by the beauty of the place!  Anyway, Sally wanted to lead Alison Rib (Diff *) which was a nice route.

Sally leading Alison Rib (Diff *)

The climbing around Bosigran in this area didn't seemed so sustained so the pitches were broken up.  After completing the second pitch is was my turn to lead and I picked In-Between (VDiff.  This route seemed quite direct and came up under an overhang which took me a while to pluck up the courage to move over as it was quite exposed and I only had a number one nut under the overhang in sideways for protection.  The hands felt awkward and there didn't seem a lot to grab above or anything bomber for your feet either!  After this I took the route as direct as possible to the top of the first pitch of Alison Rib. I was so relieved to get passed the overhang that I took the following photo which doesn't do the exposure any justice!  I'm guessing Dave (in the green helmet to the left of where the red rope disappears is a few meters back from the base of the wall).

Looking back whilst leading In-Between (VDiff)

After topping out I went up the next pitch but trending to the groove on the right which looked harder.  This wasn't too bad but involved a step around and over.  I'd say the route was worth a star (at least the way I did it!)

Me leading a variation on the second pitch of In-Between (VDiff)

After this Sally went back to the car for a Cream Tea down the road so me and Dave decided to do a route with our rucksacks rather than walking out.  I think this was Fasolt (VDiff).  It was a different experience climbing with a rucksack, I've done it on ice but without as much weight.  This route seemed a bit polished in places!

Dave leading Fasolt (VDiff)

We followed up the path back to the car, as you can see it was cracking weather and I loved cornwall and would go back in a second even with the colossal drive!  When we got back to the car park Sally had been for her cream tea and highly recommended it so I thought it an apt way to finish the trip!

 

Cornwall part II - Big tick!

I had one route that I really wanted to get done after reviewing all the crags on the UKC site and that was Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***).  After having a few jars I was a bit muggy headed and like most times in life my organisation left a little to be desired and I had no breakfast.  After we made it to Chair Ladder I decided to head back to Sennen and get a proper Cornish Pasty.  I don't normally like them but this was pretty damn good!  By the time I got back I struggled to find Stewie and Chink or Sally and Dave.  After a while Chink popped up from a route he pointed me in the direction of Sally and Dave.  I went over and found their rucksacks and after a while they came back up.  After refuelling Sally, Dave and I headed over to Terrier's Tooth, the big classic of the crag.

The back of Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***), you abseil off it from the spike on the right

There are a couple of abseils before you reach the bottom of the cove by which the needle looks much higher than it did from above and behind!  The first pitch is the crux and Dave led this, taking some time to size it up because of the lack of protection.  He got a cam in behind the flake and then a sling but its another bold step up after that (it's two or three moves to get to the cam placement) before you are on easier ground.

Dave sizing up the first pitch of Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***)

Dave placing the first bit of gear - a cam behind a flake - the gully under him would make for a nasty fall!

As you can see Chair Ladder is on a much bigger and more intimidating scale than Sennen and has some lovely multi-pitch climbing.  I preferred this crag over Sennen and later Bosigran.   Anyway I followed on the and found it ok because of a bit more reach, I think I could of lead it although I laid off to the left before it eased off and I think this would of caused me problems on a lead as I had to adjust and lay off right - this would of been very twitchy leading!  Dave took it all in his stride!  After making it to the belay I thought that the next pitch was easy enough so I led it.  A nice vertical crack to work within, slightly bulging at the time but ok, what a view for a belay though!

Me at the belay of pitch two of Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***)

I wasn't sure about the next pitch because you have to maneuver around to get to the slab.  I'd seen pictures of this and it was shorter than I thought but the guide stated it was only 9m.  That said the slab has two vertical left trending grooves and the slab starts at just below waist height so you need to layoff or jam to step up.  When you do and look between your legs the sea is a long way down!  Absolutely awesome!  After this you skirt across the back and abseil off.

Dave abseiling off the back

The final word has to be absolutely brilliant, what a climb, three unique pitches with an amazing situation and very climbable.  I enjoyed this more than any other rock I've done, I wouldn't hesitate in recommending it!  Once again we retired for some more Doombar!

Climbing on the sea cliffs of Cornwall

I ended up going down to Cornwall on my own as Kate couldn't make it, so I left straight from work in Coventry for the drive down to Land's End.  By midnight I'd got 50 miles left on the A30 and knew I wouldn't be setting the tent up so I pulled into a layby and got some shut eye.  Saturday morning I woke up at 8:30 after having a surprisingly good nights kip in my bucket seat!  I had a text from Dave Bowler telling me to head down to Sennen and arrived about an hour later to find Dave and Sally on Demo Route (HS 4b ***) and Paul and Rebecca on Intermediate Route (VDiff).

Dave on what I think is the crux of Demo Route (HS 4b ***)

Rebecca toping out on Intermediate Route (VDiff)

After this I was keen to get down and get stuck in!  Look at the place, it's gorgeous and the granite rock is so inviting - its got sooo much friction, even when wet.  We abseiled down into the crag and I teamed up with Paul and Rebecca to try Banana Flake (VDiff *) by the time we got down there Dave and Sally had already done the first pitch of Double Overhang (VS 4c *).  Paul took the lead and then took up Rebecca up before I followed.  I finished the route more direct rather than going left at the top.

Me belaying Paul on Banana Flake (VDiff *)

After this route I was busting to take a lead and decided on Black Slab (VDiff *) so we abseiled back into the crag and I set off.  I found the chimney a bit daunting at the time but not technically difficult.  I travelled a bit too far up the chimney and finished the route very direct as apposed to the route description of moving left.  This was a fun route and I was really stoked.

Me placing gear after leaving the slab section of Black Slab (VDiff *)

After this Paul and Rebecca went to the cafe and I was going to follow Sally and Dave up Staircase (Diff *) but Stewie and Matt aka Chink (of Life at the end of a rope fame).  Chink flew up Africa Route (VS 5a *) and I followed.  This has a very stiff start and after ignoring Stewie's "just stand up advice" and following the advice of a local (look for the "black knob") I was on my way.  I found the chimney a bit tough to get on to and very committing!  After I'd "made it" I squeezed through another chimney and added another battle scar to my Mammut Basejumper trousers (I get enough comments on my shiny rack, so at least something is well worn!).  Stewie followed and we retired to the campsite for a Steak and a few jars of local Doombar ale :)

Chink flying up Africa Route (VS 5a *)

Retroblogging!

Ok so I've been a little slack on the blogging and now I've got a little catching up to do!  I've been running and I feel that's coming along.  Managed 8 miles in 1:15 around the harder part of the Ironbridge half marathon course so that was good and also got a good route in around the Wrekin and Arcall, also about 8 miles.  I've broken through 8 min/miles but not consistently - I'm managing 9:30 over rough ground on average so thats coming along nicely.  Before I headed to Cornwall I went to Grinshill for a WMC meet.  I won't bore you with the details but here is a pic taken on my iPhone top roping Main Wall 5a and Chris on something else, his pic was pinched from Paul Ruck's site

Me on Main wall (5a)

Chris Ellis on unknown route?