Thursday, July 22, 2010

Alps 2010 - Up to the Envers Hut (Day 1-2)

I've just got back from a couple of nights in the mountains for a rest day so here is a catch up so far.  Chris and I set off from Telford straight after work, heading to his aunty and uncle's house near St Albans.  First thing Saturday morning we were up and heading towards Dover.  The trip was ok, I think we arrived at Chamonix about 7:30pm having left at 5am.  The drive is a long one with not much to do but read and play with the camera, a 10-20mm lens I hired especially for the trip.  Its taken some awesome photos so far, despite being a pain to lug about and get out to take photos with.

Too much time in the car!

When we arrived at Chamonix we were ready to get the tent up and hit the hay so we could get out the next morning but as we arrived the campsite was fully booked.  The Mer de Glace campsite is probably the best in Chamonix with easy access everywhere (you get a free rail ticket), good free showers, laundry facilities and free wi-fi :)  After talking to the owners they told us to come back early the next day, so we scouted around looking for somewhere to doss.  Chris found a chalet that was still being built but nearing the end of construction so we go the sleeping gear out and spent the night under the verandah.  We were up early the next morning to try and get a space and found a the Dru peering at us through the clouds.

Le Dru through the clouds at 6am

I had to wait in a queue at the office until they opened at 7:30am, the lady at the campsite sorted us out with a pitch and we got the tent up sharpish.  As soon as we had it up we packed our bags and headed back to Chamonix station to catch the Montenvers station up to the Montenvers Hotel at on the side of the Mer de Glace glacier.  We met a Scottish lad called Graham who we got chatting to, he asked if he could rope up with us across the glacier.

Montenvers Train Station

This drops you off at around 1900m (around 900m gain from the town of Chamonix).  We then headed down the via ferrata style ladders around 100m down on to the glacier.  If your not good with heights, you wouldn't like this!  There were also some ropes to descend hand over hand if you preferred.  We took the 3 sections of rope at the bottom in preference to the ladders.

Chris on the via ferrata ladders from the Mer de Glace

As we got to the glacier we saw a marmot which was so tame you could of stroked it!  Chris got up a personal with the little fellow :)  Once on the glacier we walked for a little while before deciding to rope up.  We didn't bother with crampons as the surface was quite soft because of the baking sun.  I led across with Chris in the middle and Graham at the back.  We marched across the glacier, jumping some crevasses and walking across a narrowish ice bridge (about 2ft).  It was pretty good fun walking into the mountains along the glacier, and the fact that it was dry (no snow) meant it was fairly safe going.

Chris and Graham getting ready to rope up on the Mer de Glace

After following the glacier around a bend the crevasses worsened before it straighten out and the glacier got steeper.  There is a large red arrow on the cliff face to the left hand side which marks the ladders, similar to those from the Montenvers.  There is lots of loss boulders, scree and sand on the edge of the glacier which require good balance before getting to the foot of the ladders.  Graham had a bit of a stumble which knocked down a lot of rubble, missing Chris lower down.  There was then a very short slightly overhanging section of ladder.  

Chris above the Mer de Glace on more via ferrata

After following the ladder to the top there was a winding path which we followed before another few shorter sections of iron steps and handles before finding the path again.  By this point I'm not sure if it was altitude or heat or what but I was blowing a bit and the last winding section up to the hut was tough!   There were plenty of marmots to keep me amused while taking a breather.  My fitness hasn't counted for much and lugging up a heavy sack full of metal climbing, sleeping and cooking gear as well as food didn't make it any easier.  The Envers hut at 2523m is worth it though, nice and clean with proper working toilets and some of the best food in the Alps I've had :)  Talk about a room with a view....

Envers Hut (2523m) perched above the Mer de Glace

Chris on the terrace of the Envers Hut

We set up our bivi gear outside the hut against the stone wall, I was shattered and got off to sleep around 9pm I think.  I only woke at about 2am to see some climbers leaving, one of which is in a Petzl Scottish winter climbing video (the one called Marshal?) see below.  


The stars are so vivid at this height with no light pollution.  I was too tired to take any pictures and went back to sleep.  The half sleeping bag and belay jacket worked really well, so I was pleased with that.

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