Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Cornwall part II - Big tick!

I had one route that I really wanted to get done after reviewing all the crags on the UKC site and that was Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***).  After having a few jars I was a bit muggy headed and like most times in life my organisation left a little to be desired and I had no breakfast.  After we made it to Chair Ladder I decided to head back to Sennen and get a proper Cornish Pasty.  I don't normally like them but this was pretty damn good!  By the time I got back I struggled to find Stewie and Chink or Sally and Dave.  After a while Chink popped up from a route he pointed me in the direction of Sally and Dave.  I went over and found their rucksacks and after a while they came back up.  After refuelling Sally, Dave and I headed over to Terrier's Tooth, the big classic of the crag.


The back of Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***), you abseil off it from the spike on the right

There are a couple of abseils before you reach the bottom of the cove by which the needle looks much higher than it did from above and behind!  The first pitch is the crux and Dave led this, taking some time to size it up because of the lack of protection.  He got a cam in behind the flake and then a sling but its another bold step up after that (it's two or three moves to get to the cam placement) before you are on easier ground.


Dave sizing up the first pitch of Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***)



Dave placing the first bit of gear - a cam behind a flake - the gully under him would make for a nasty fall!

As you can see Chair Ladder is on a much bigger and more intimidating scale than Sennen and has some lovely multi-pitch climbing.  I preferred this crag over Sennen and later Bosigran.   Anyway I followed on the and found it ok because of a bit more reach, I think I could of lead it although I laid off to the left before it eased off and I think this would of caused me problems on a lead as I had to adjust and lay off right - this would of been very twitchy leading!  Dave took it all in his stride!  After making it to the belay I thought that the next pitch was easy enough so I led it.  A nice vertical crack to work within, slightly bulging at the time but ok, what a view for a belay though!


Me at the belay of pitch two of Terrier's Tooth (HS 4b ***)

I wasn't sure about the next pitch because you have to maneuver around to get to the slab.  I'd seen pictures of this and it was shorter than I thought but the guide stated it was only 9m.  That said the slab has two vertical left trending grooves and the slab starts at just below waist height so you need to layoff or jam to step up.  When you do and look between your legs the sea is a long way down!  Absolutely awesome!  After this you skirt across the back and abseil off.


Dave abseiling off the back

The final word has to be absolutely brilliant, what a climb, three unique pitches with an amazing situation and very climbable.  I enjoyed this more than any other rock I've done, I wouldn't hesitate in recommending it!  Once again we retired for some more Doombar!

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